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Noah
Dodge Dakota
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8/18/2005
23:01:53

Subject: overheating
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First off..yes, I have searched the threads...for 3 days.
95 Dak 5.2 auto w a/c

Replaced: water pump, rad, t stat, lower hose, upper hose, bypass hose, temp sensor, coolant, plugs (autolite 3924), d.s. head (1,3,5,7), both head gaskets, intake gaskets, fan clutch, and radiator cap. I think that about covers it.

I am still getting hot after driving for about 10 to 15 minutes. Getting bubbles in the radiator about every 10 to 15 seconds or so. Stop and go, or highway, doesnt matter what speed. Heats up faster on the highway..obviously.
Did a leakdown check....every cylinder checked out, no bubbles in rad while checking. Did a compression check, high was 165, low was 130...average was 140. Plugs are clean, no signs of antifreeze on them. NOT losing water.

HELLLLPPPPPP!!! Pulling hair out in CLUMPS!!



.boB
Dodge Dakota
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8/19/2005
01:48:45

RE: overheating
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First, remove the thermostat, drill a 1/4" hole in the plate, and re-install. Now the system will be almost self burping, and should quickly remove all the air.

Then, go to a smog check station and ask them to check your fuel mixture via HC and CO.

Unfortunatly, recurrent air bubbles in the coolant usually means a breach in the cooling system. Could be something simple, but it's usually a cracked head or blown head gasket. A leak down test or compression test won't pick this up. Have the coolant tested for products of combustion.

Why did you replace the ds head, and not ps?



Noah
Dodge Dakota
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8/19/2005
08:27:12

RE: overheating
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ps was good, magnafluxed ok. Ds was cracked. Tstat has the burp hole in it already



gen1dak
Dodge Dakota
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8/19/2005
12:28:27

RE: overheating
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Does it seem to be a bit pokey like you're pulling a mild load? If an automatic, I'd have the tranny checked out. OD may be melting down. The debris may be causeing a flow restriction. The extra heat would easily saturate the radiator and cause an overheat....especially after a few minutes on the highway. Could also be a partially clogged or malfunctioning check ball valve in the tranny return line.



noah
Dodge Dakota
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8/19/2005
19:58:32

RE: overheating
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trans cooler isnt hooked up...have dual coolers in front of and beside rad for it.



1991 dak. LE
Dodge Dakota
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8/21/2005
21:07:37

RE: overheating
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my dakota has 2 radiators and there was trash in between them causing to overheat..only found that out after replacing all that



Red 99 Dak RT
Dodge Dakota
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8/22/2005
11:01:47

RE: overheating
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I don't know if you want to try this, but it worked for me in an old car I had. In that one I did all the things you did including flushing the cooling system twice, and I got this idea to dump 2/3 quarts of Vinegar in my cooling system. I thought od that because that's the way you clean the calcium out of a coffee pot. In that old car, the overheating stopped, but I can't give you an idea how long to keep it in.



Noah
Dodge Dakota
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8/25/2005
19:38:41

RE: overheating
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Pulled the heads...ok, new head gaskets, intake, t stat (195), checked h20 pump ...ok still getting hot.
Need some ideas peoples



daddio
Dodge Dakota
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8/25/2005
20:33:52

RE: overheating
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how is circulation in the rad? is there any debris built up between the condenser and radiator? did the timing cover look worn or scarred behind the waterpump? what pressure range cap do you have on the rad? are you8 sure you don't have leaks anywhere?



Rustywrenches
Dodge Dakota
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8/25/2005
23:00:59

RE: overheating
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This will sound stupid but ...... check to make sure you have the serpentine belt routed correctly. I have see people put them on wrong ........ Actually is very easy to do when not following the diagram.



Noah
Dodge Dakota
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8/26/2005
20:37:10

RE: overheating
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water pump is in good shape, housing looked really good. Circulation isnt apparent at idle, but starts moving really well off idle. checked between rad and condenser, everything is clear. cap is a 16lb, new

It appears there are bubbles coming up in the rad when idling. heads checked out ok, compression test was good, leakdown showed nothing, no water in oil, no water leaking anywhere Where are the bubbles coming from??



.boB
Dodge Dakota
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8/27/2005
00:32:45

RE: overheating
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They can only come from one place, the combustion chamber.



Red 99 Dak RT
Dodge Dakota
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8/27/2005
11:00:02

RE: overheating
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I've seen people talking about taking off the clutch fan and putting in an electric fan. Every one listed that I saw bought a brand new one. Has anyone thought of going to the bone yard and using one of those to replace it with? I can see how it is a viable solution to putting in an electric fan. Gain of horse power and higher air flow at low speeds.



Noah
Dodge Dakota
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8/27/2005
21:53:42

RE: overheating
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If the bubbles are coming from the combustion chamber, why is the leakdown test checking out ok? I had the heads checked for cracks..they are in good shape. Even with a compression test, I should see somthing out of the ordinary, right?



.boB
Dodge Dakota
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8/27/2005
22:19:55

RE: overheating
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Gnerally not. A leakdown and compression test will test the valve seals and the first compression ring. You can't produce enough pressure under the right conditions to show a head gasket leak with either of them, unless it's huge.

You have to think of a condition that will force gasses into the cooling system, which is under 16-21 psi of pressure. So it has to be something that has more pressure than the coolant does. There's only two things that do: oil galleys, and combustion chamber. Combustion chamber also includes the piston walls all the down past the top of the piston when it's at BDC.

If you had forced induction, then you could include the intake track. But in a normally aspirated engine it's under a vacume, and would suck coolant into the intake valve.

Checking the coolant for products of combustion is a pretty good test. It works really well for blown head gaskets and cracked heads, but not so well for cracked cylinder walls. But it's not 100% accurate. Sometimes it has to be occuring long enough for those products to reach a level that can be detected. A small leak can't be detected in fairly fresh coolant.




Noah
Dodge Dakota
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8/28/2005
09:59:10

RE: overheating
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I have heard there is a test I can do with a dye and a bubble that is supposed to change color if I am getting combustion, is it feasible? Worth the cost? Is this something I can do myself?



Red 99 Dak RT
Dodge Dakota
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8/28/2005
15:13:43

RE: overheating
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I have been looking around and seen where someone got a push fan and put it in front of the radiator. They have it turn on when they turn on the A/C. They also have a manual switch inside the cab to turn it on when they see it starting to warm up.



pitadak
Dodge Dakota
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8/30/2005
22:49:28

RE: overheating
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Anyone who has installed a pusher fan in a gen 3, I'd like to know how you did it. Dosn't appear to be much room on mine.



.boB
Dodge Dakota
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8/31/2005
13:12:28

RE: overheating
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"I have heard there is a test I can do with a dye and a bubble that is supposed to change color if I am getting combustion, is it feasible? Worth the cost? Is this something I can do myself?"

I'v seen them around, but don't know much about the. It's cheap, so it's worth a try. If the test is positive, there's your answer. But if the test is negative, then you're still not sure. It's that whole sensativity/specificity thing.

I'd try it, it can't hurt anything.





Red 99 Dak RT
Dodge Dakota
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9/02/2005
21:33:22

RE: overheating
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I thought of something today and i don't know why I didn't think of it sooner. Have you checked the Timing. Being off a degree or 2 can help raise the engine temp.



Noah
Dodge Dakota
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9/03/2005
10:47:47

new engine
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CRACKED BLOCK!!!

Ok I replaced the engine with a 96 full size engine, had to notch the frame for the oil pan, change manifolds, and TB. I got it running, but it wont idle except in gear and very low at that. When I rev it up it runs fine with no miss, but every now and then it pops thru the exhaust. Gonna change the plugs, wires, cap, and clean the injectors today. The scanner shows a cam sensor, and a crank sensor with KOEO, but when I start it the crank sensor says NO. Could this be part of the problem?? The old gas in the injectors smelled really stale, but I think I have run it all out. WHat else am i missing??



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