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jeremiah2360
Dodge Dakota
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1/03/2005
18:30:41

Subject: RE: milky oil foam
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rp can`t you just type the analysis results in a column, thats what I did. Sorry to bug you but I am curious to see the whole analysis(oil brand and weight,miles on oil, vis, etc....).



jeremiah2360
Dodge Dakota
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1/03/2005
18:38:04

RE: milky oil foam
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This was after 9987 miles(about 15k on motor) with Amsoil 10-30(which thickened to a low 40 weight)

OIL ANALYZERS

Iron-19
Chromium-3
Lead-1
Copper-14
Tin-0
AL-5
Nickel-0
Silver-0
SLICON-7
Boron-24
Sodium-9
Magnesium-718
Calcium-1978
Barium-0
Phos-957
Zinc-1270
Molybdenum-6
Titanium-0
Vandium-0
Potassium-0
Fuel<1
VIS@100 C cSt-13.49
Water-0
Soots/Solids-N/A
Glycol-NEG
TBN-4.19
OXID-25
NITR-23
NORMAL,NO CORRECTIVE....

Not bad.




rpwilliams
Dodge Dakota
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1/04/2005
08:50:37

RE: milky oil foam
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I guess I could do that.

Oil - Redline 5w30
Miles on truck - 6348
Miles on oil - 3348

Miscellaneous
A/F - N
Fuel - N
H2O - Y*
Viscosity - 56

Infrared Analysis
Soot - 27
Oxidation - 79
Nitration - 126*
Sulfur - 0

Wear Metals(PPM)
Copper - 6
Iron - 46
Chrome - 3
Aluminum - 16*
Silicon - 12
Lead - 0
Sodium - 47*
Tin - 0
Nickel - 2
Barium - 1
Silver - 1
Zinc - 1296
Boron - 0
Calcium - 2551
Phosphor - 1201
Magnesium- 35
Potasium - 5
Molybend - 532
Titanium - 0
Vanadium - 0

* These items were what the lab marked as being concerned about.

Here are some comments the lab made on the sample report.
- Need to establish wear trend for compartment
- Positive water contamination
- Sodium commonly used as corrosion inhibitor in coolant
- Sodium may be from over the road salt(how did that get in there?)
- Nitration level is unacceptable
- Aluminum is reportable
- Water may be from condensation
- Resample to monitor

I figured I'd give this oil until 7000 truck miles and resample/change it.



jeremiah2360
Dodge Dakota
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1/04/2005
18:26:51

RE: milky oil foam
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rp I checked out a couple of Virgin oil samples of Redline. They use an unorthodox add pack(to me anyways). Example: 18-21ppm sodium, aluminum 4-5,silicon 8. These aren`t bad, they are added on purpose and work together. This will "skew" oil analysis results if the lab or owner aren`t familiar with Redline oil. Your motor is still breaking in as well. Short trips might explain water. Even considering all that your results are suspect. I would highly recommend you contact Terry Dyson of Dyson Analysis (go to bobistheoilguy.com or ask and I`ll provide you a link). He reads analysis for a living and I bet he could tell you exactly whats going on with your motor. He is also very familiar with Redline oil. He charges $10.00 on top of the $20.00 analysis fee. This would be right up his alley and I promise he won`t disappoint you.

Would you mind if I cut and pasted your analysis results on bobistheoilguy.com btw?

Thanks for posting your analysis and Good luck.

PS: I would change that oil out now(save a sample for Terry maybe).



rpwilliams
Dodge Dakota
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1/05/2005
08:37:28

RE: milky oil foam
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I don't mind at all. I had planned to change out the oil this weekend. I will be at 7000.



Hemiman
Dodge Dakota
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1/05/2005
10:44:30

RE: milky oil foam
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O.K. guys if you remove the valve cover on any engine that has a pcv in it you will see the same milky foam. the 4.7 has the pcv in the fill neck where you can see it. Stop looking for problems and drive the thing. I have a 02 and I run the holy sh!@ out of it at 100k and have no problems.



rpwilliams
Dodge Dakota
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1/05/2005
11:58:19

RE: milky oil foam
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-Hemiman

Your engine is one I'd like to see torn apart. If DC could show me a couple engines that have 100-150k miles on them with no abnormal wear, then I would feel better. You haven't experienced any problems, but how much longer does the engine have? What is DC's estimated 4.7 life? Neither myself nor anyone I know has ever seen emulsion under a valve cover. You would think it would be visible when you change your PCV valve or look into the valve cover via the oil cap.



Hemiman
Dodge Dakota
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1/05/2005
15:35:03

RE: milky oil foam
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RP.
I'll let you Know in a year I put 50k on it a year. The cold temp. is what is causing the milky foam. The byproduct of fire(burnt fuel) is
heat and H2o. If you drive it long enough to burn off the condensation it will not be there.
don't worry about it and enjoy the drive.



rpwilliams
Dodge Dakota
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1/05/2005
16:17:29

RE: milky oil foam
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That was another problem I had. People have been saying throughout this forum that "if you drive it for a while the foam goes away". I took my sample as soon as I got home from work. Which is a 40 mile drive that is all highway other than the last 3-4 miles. That's when I found the tube full of foam! I'm beginning to think I just got a bad one, but it runs like a raped ape. Like I said before, I'm just going to monitor it. If the problems go away, SWEET. If not, I hope DC can help.

My friend told me the other day that his Liberty has the same style fill tube on the 3.7l. Do these engines produce the same emulsion build up? His only has about 350 miles on it.



fwiw
Dodge Dakota
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1/05/2005
16:33:00

RE: milky oil foam
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dc expects most 4.7s to go 150k



jeremiah2360
Dodge Dakota
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1/05/2005
22:23:47

RE: milky oil foam
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rp I posted your analysis on bobistheoilguy;

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=002192#000008





rt
Dodge Dakota
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3/30/2006
19:58:15

RE: milky oil foam
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I am about to buy another Dakota after driving a 1989 Dakota over 150,000 miles. This foam you are describing and debating was present in this V6 way back when. I know it's not the 4.7 you're describing but the same condition was present and had no effect on the engine. In fact it's still on the road. I sold it to a neighbour.

I live in Canada where at times we get 40+ below. Driving on the highway at 60 mph, don't know what the chill factor but it's got to be major. Also it would not be unusual to have frost on the motor and most engine bay components even after 60 mile run.

This condition was quite prominent in the winter.

The bottom line IMO, based on a vehicle with over 150,000 miles that exhibited this condition - no worries.

I'm getting an '02 4.7 Quad 4x4 SLT with about 60k on it. Drove it today - quiet, tight and powerful. Far cry from my 89.

Great site BTW. Lots of good info.



OBIO3
Dodge Dakota
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3/30/2006
22:54:57

RE: milky oil foam
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I do not have a 4.7. Mine is a 5,2. I run my own shop for over 40 years. In the days before PCV, condensation and acids in the engine was terrible. There was only a draft tube that was good for relieving blow by pressure. At 50 or 60,000 most engines started using oil. The guys that took really good care of the engine could get a few more. most people turned there car in when oil consumption hit about a quart in 500 miles. The rest you couldn't see for blue smoke. The PCV valve was a god sent. It took miles driven to well over 100,000 miles with no oil burning. Done a pretty fare job keeping the engines clean. This shows you younger guys just how important it is to keep that PCV valve in top shape. The long plastic oil fill tub is an area with no cross ventalation.If I had a 4.7 I think I would Put as big a hose connecter I could on the oil fill cap and run that hose down close to the exhaust closer to rear of engine away from cold air. I would put some kind of free flowing filter on it and just see if the PCV could suck enough air through that hose and on through the filler tube to keep the air moving there by cleaning out the water and getting rid of it in the crank case with the other water.This would require me to have the engine oil analized to be sure no dammagewas taking place. I.m not saying this would work. I'm saying if i had a 4.7 I would try this. I also think moving the fill cap to the valve cover is a good answer.

So many problems .... So little time



Shatto
Dodge Dakota
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4/04/2006
16:37:17

RE: milky oil foam
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rt,
Come on! Tell us about cold weather anti-freeze and oils.





oldblue03
Dodge Dakota
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2/16/2007
20:13:08

RE: milky oil foam
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i own a 03 ram with 54k with this problem.myself i dont really think moving the a oil fill cap to the valve cover will fix this,the oil tube is still there collecting that yellow crap. is there aftermatket valve covers and oil fill tubes that are make of metal? i belive it is just all the plastic sweating that is causing this. but ya'll know automakers these days, plastic, plastic, plastic



dood
Dodge Dakota
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3/04/2007
17:45:22

RE: milky oil foam
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I have a 2001 4.7 that does the same thing. It has 151k miles and I only use Mobil 1. The oil changes come out fine. A water and oil emulsion is kinda like margarine... I recommend spreading it on toast.



911mike
Dodge Dakota
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3/04/2007
18:06:01

RE: milky oil foam
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I live in a fairly cold climate (Montreal/Canada)
so the oil tube foam was a problem for a least 6 months a year,
(synthetic oil used since day 1, Mobil1 for the first few years, but now Redline 5W-30)

Practicaly eliminated the problem a couple years ago when I removed
the oil tube from the engine and wrapped 2-3 layers of 'aluminium insulation tape' around it to keep the temperature inside warmer.
Now only a light film of 'emulsion' coats the inside of the oil tube during the winter months,
but never the thick foamy shake like before.



freddie
Dodge Dakota
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5/05/2007
07:36:29

RE: milky oil foam
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Hi

I have a 2000 4.7 Dakota. Have owned it for 3 months, with 125,000km on it. I drove it for a week without the filler cap and no yellow foam appeared. As soon as I replaced the cap, the yellow stuff was back within a day. Now I am driving it with a cloth cover on the filler tube, and have no trouble with yellow foam reappearing. Not sure what is happening, but the engine seems to be running fine, and with no more yellow foam, I think I am happy.



uh oh
Dodge Dakota
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5/05/2007
14:18:22

RE: milky oil foam
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Could be wrong but with the PVC right there it can`t be good.I would think it needs a closed system to function properly.



GAP
Dodge Dakota
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12/29/2011
19:12:52

RE: milky oil foam
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The foam and the moisture is in the filler tube because the PCV draws it from the crankcase to there and the engine burns it. I agree with a much earlier post that said if the filler tube was made from aluminum it would absorb heat from the engine and the moisture would not condense there which allows it to run back into the engine. It is a bad design and DC should be made to fix it with an insulated billet aluminum filler tube but, some company should come up with an aftermarket one!



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