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Duncan MAXWEL
Dodge Dakota
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2/25/2008
17:08:51

Subject: 2000 Dakota vent issues...
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Hi, been searching but after I hit page 50, I gave up. I have an issue with my dakota that has been ongoing since new....

Blowing either hot or cold it stops blowing air after 10-15 minutes UNLESS I leave it on the dash vents. Therefore in the winter, when I am trying to defrost the windows, I lose airflow through the defrosting vents. Interestingly I can switch to the dash vents, where I have zero airflow, then leave it there for about 5 minutes - eventually it clears whatever the issue is and I can switch back off of the dash vents.

This is a consistent issue with any setting OTHER THAN dash vents. I am not losing the heat or the A/C, I am losing the actual air flow. Any ideas? The mighty dodge mechanics have never sorted it out...



BostonBeaner
Dodge Dakota
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2/25/2008
19:13:15

RE: 2000 Dakota vent issues...
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Since new? Didn't the warranty cover it?



Duncan MAXWEL
Dodge Dakota
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2/25/2008
19:16:14

RE: 2000 Dakota vent issues...
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THe warranty SHOULD have covered it, however since the shop claimed they were never able to replicate the problem, It still exists!



jjj
Dodge Dakota
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2/26/2008
08:22:55

RE: 2000 Dakota vent issues...
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Will it do it sitting still idling?
Does the fan still run or does it shut off? You should be able to hear it.



Duncan MAXWEL
Dodge Dakota
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2/26/2008
19:55:03

RE: 2000 Dakota vent issues...
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The fan runs non stop, its not the fan. You can hear the fan speed up when you turn it up...

Its just the airflow, as if something is blocking the vents or the pipes. I thought it might be freezing up (Northern Alberta winters and all), but then it does it when its really not cold out and blowing hot air, and when the AC is on.





DECEPTOR
Dodge Dakota
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2/27/2008
13:30:39

RE: 2000 Dakota vent issues...
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I believe you have a small vacuum leak in either the A/C & Heater control, one of the vacuum lines, or the blend door actuator. It seems like the only place you have a good connection/seal is in the dash vent position. Any other position it takes about 15 minutes for the existing vacuum to leak down and cause the blend door to "probably" fall open into an unsealed position. If this is the case, then you should have air coming out of every vent from the floor to the dash and up to the defrost. You will probably have to listen for it because it will be of very small force.
Have you removed the A/C & Heater control unit to check the multiple vacuum hose connection?

Take care,

DECEPTOR



sam
Dodge Dakota
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2/27/2008
22:23:28

RE: 2000 Dakota vent issues...
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It is somewhat common for the heater housing doors to split in the place that the actuator drives the door. This causes the actuator motor to just spin rather than actually moving the door. The door can stop in any position and can sometimes partially stop the airflow from the ducts. Hope this helps.



Duncan MAXWEL
Dodge Dakota
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2/28/2008
00:13:58

RE: 2000 Dakota vent issues...
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Deceptor - I'll look into that. TO be honest I have never even looked at it, just had a friend who said I should try and ask online, see if anyone had a similar issue. I'll have to test it out as you noted to see....I can confirm that there is VERY low air flow - would this also reduce the total amount of air blowing? Otherwise I would expect the car to remain hot/cold in a manner similar to household central heating ie: heat distributed evenly...

Sam: - Wouldn't that mean I could not switch it from defrost to dash vents? Or am I misunderstanding? If something was broken, would it not mean I would have no airflow all the time?



DECEPTOR
Dodge Dakota
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2/28/2008
14:47:19

RE: 2000 Dakota vent issues...
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Duncan,
Well, the total amount of airflow would be the same, just distributed over a greater volume of plumbing. This would reduce the "force" at each output point. Similar to comparing blowing through a straw to blowing through 4" PVC pipe.

I understand your question about comparing the overall heat/cool of the vehicle to your house's central heat/air. The main differences between the two would be: 1. Central heat/air ducts are fully insulated to reduce how much energy is required to change and maintain the temperature of the air inside and to resist the external air from negatively influencing the desired condition. Also, once the inner duct temperature matches the temperature of the heated/chilled air, it also aides in the future heating/cooling of air through conduction due to the insulation. 2. Central heat/air ducts are sized specifically based upon distance from the source so that each output is "noticeable" and equal. In your truck, the small levels of heat/cool air being spread over all the uninsulated plumbing have a difficult time overcoming the environmental air outside the vehicle and inside the cabin. In your truck, by the time the 100+ degree air leaves the heater core and slowly whispers its way along the plastic tubing the heat energy is absorbed by the cold plumbing, which is kept cold by the greater amounts of cold air surrounding the plumbing. The opposite is true for the chilled air.

Does this make sense? I'm not proofreading.... :-)

DECEPTOR



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