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Howard
Dodge Dakota
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6/08/2007
10:14:17

Subject: Runs great, until it moves
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This one is tough to figure. I have a 94 slt and was driving home from the lake when all of the sudden it just stopped running. I tried and tried to restart it but it just sounded like it was not getting any gas. I figured it had to be the fuel pump and had it towed home. The next morning when I went to do an electrical test on the fuel pump the dam thing fired right up. It ran fine for about 30 miles then bam died again. I switched the fuel pump relay and auto shut down relay under the hood and it fired right up and ran great again. about 30 miles later she died again. this kept happening for a couple of days until it got to where it would start and only run for about 15 feet and die. The confusing part is that It only dies when I start moving forward. I can leave it idling or put it in drive with my foot on the brake and nothing happens but as soon as I start rolling forward off it goes. I can drive it around the block in reverse but cant get out of the driveway in drive. I can drive it with my foot on the brake but as soon as I let the peddle go it shuts down. When its cold it will run for about 15 minutes but when it gets to operating temp it won't make it 15 feet. Anybody got any suggestions what might be causing this I'm all ears errrrr eyes. willing to try anything that sounds logical cause even though she has 195,000 miles on her she still out climbs and out hauls the competition, period....
Not ready for retirement

HHP



Dan M
Dodge Dakota
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6/08/2007
10:49:19

RE: Runs great, until it moves
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The first part of the post about it not starting sounds like the splice, under the hood about 8" down from the PDC (unwrap it). Re-solder it. It's a common issue. You can search and find alot of posts about it.

mark.dodgedakotas.com is the site to do the search.

- Dan M



partsmanager
Dodge Dakota
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6/08/2007
13:55:52

RE: Runs great, until it moves
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test your pick-coil and crank sensors. Very likely one of them is acting up. common symptoms are stalling when hot and/or after driving a distance then restarting after it cools or overnight. I'd look at the crank sensor first. good luck and let us know what happens



jayb
Dodge Dakota
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6/08/2007
15:10:33

RE: Runs great, until it moves
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sounds like your pcm is shot to me. do the code check. turn the ignition on, off, on, off and on again, leaving it on. count the blinks . short pauses means its a 2 digit number. long pauses means its between numbers. dont start the engine at any time while doing this.



Howard
Dodge Dakota
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6/09/2007
04:14:03

RE: Runs great, until it moves
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OK, Sorry it took so long to repost, work too far from home means I stay until I finish. the wife says I work to much, except on fridays when she says I better get a second job.
Back to the issue at hand, Thanks for the quick responses. I ran the codes shortly after this trouble began and recieved a 12, 33, and a 42. I don't know what the 12 is refering to, the 33 has something to do with the ac fan/blower and the 42 is a faulty auto shutdown circuitry which prompted the relay switching I mentioned. I will have to look into the crank sensor and have read the many posts that discuss the factory splice. After I check the latter 2 I will post the outcome here. Thanks for the helpful recomendations now if only I could get somebody to fill in for me on the job so I can work on getting this thing fixed. Then I'd be able to get to that second job.

HHP



Dan M
Dodge Dakota
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6/11/2007
08:01:33

RE: Runs great, until it moves
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http://www.allpar.com/fix/80s-codes.html

#12 Battery or computer recently disconnected

#33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit)

# 42 Fuel pump relay control circuit
# 42 Fuel level unit - no change over miles
OR
# 42 Z1 voltage missing when autoshutdown circuit energized (SEE NOTE #6)

NOTE #6.

The Z1 voltage is the voltage of the circuits fed by the autoshutdown relay. This typically includes fuel pump and switched-battery feed to the ignition coil(s). In my Le Baron, the Z1 circuit leaves the power module and splits into two paths: the fuel pump and the positive side of the ignition coil. Internal to the power module is the auto shutdown relay (in my case, it's a sealed box about 1" by 1"). The output voltage is monitored to determine whether the relay responds correctly. I suspect that the ASD relay (and, therefore, the Z1 circuit) also feeds the fuel injector(s) driver(s) and current sensing circuit, but can't prove this.

I've used the Z1 voltage to test for good power connections to the power module. I connected my OTC 500 multimeter from the battery's positive post to the ignition coil's switched battery terminal and measured the voltage drop using the bar graph to monitor peak voltages. Voltage spikes of around 200 mV to 300 mV are ok -- anything more means tv tuner cleaner time (or replacing the power module). Another thing to check is the maximum voltage drop during the priming pulse. With the old power module, I was losing about 2 volts across the circuit; the replacement is losing about 1/4 volt. (Thanks, bbodnar@lucent.com)

note #6/Z71 is the #115 splice i was referring to, it's a common problem on the dakotas. I ran into it on my 95.

here is a post about it..

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=110627


Right below the underhood fusebox, about 8" down the harness is a splice (#115), from that splice, it powers the PCM, Fuel Pump, and Coil. All four wires are Red/white, one comes from the fusebox, two go right back up to the relays, and the fourth goes the opposite direction to the PCM. You will have to unbolt the fusebox, pull it out of the way, and cut open the tape on the harness to find the splice.

- Dan M



woody
Dodge Dakota
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6/18/2007
18:57:30

RE: Runs great, until it moves
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Dan....
Right below the underhood fusebox, about 8" down the harness is a splice (#115), from that splice, it powers the PCM, Fuel Pump, and Coil. All four wires are Red/white, one comes from the fusebox, two go right back up to the relays, and the fourth goes the opposite direction to the PCM. You will have to unbolt the fusebox, pull it out of the way, and cut open the tape on the harness to find the splice.

Question: I have this problem. Are you saying to connect all 4 of the wires together? They are not connected to anything on my truck. Totally rotten. How are they connected? Help!

woody



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