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5.2dakota
Dodge Dakota
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8/16/2006
17:27:25

Subject: mild camshafts
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how much horse power can i get out of a mild cham? Will i have to
change anything else? where can i get a mild one at?

any help i can get please? thanks



Kowalski
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8/16/2006
17:48:17

RE: mild camshafts
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Might be simpler to get a bit more lift out of the cam you have with the 1.7 ratio rockers.

Lead, follow, or get out of the way

99slt318
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8/16/2006
19:45:11

RE: mild camshafts
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does anyone know the specs for the 5.2's stock cam? im thinking about getting a cam. does anyone know if longtube headers are worth the trouble of completely reduing your exhaust?



Mr Knowitall
Dodge Dakota
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8/16/2006
22:04:17

RE: mild camshafts
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goto KRC's site and browse their cam and header pages. read their faq page too.

http://www.krcperformance.net/newcontent/cams.html

http://www.krcperformance.net/newcontent/headers.html

btw, 1.7 roller rockers are a good option instead of a cam upgrade. however, if you have 1.7 rr's and you want to upgrade the cam, you'll have to advise the cam vendor that you have 1.7 rr's so they can grind accordingly. or, you can buy an of the shelf cam and re-install the stock (1.6) rr's.

no, i dont work for KRC. but their website is exstensive and has great info.



clint
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8/16/2006
22:49:23

RE: mild camshafts
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i have a mopar cam and it dose great. can i get 1.7 rr? would that work or is that too much lift?

by the way 5.2 dakota, i have a cam intake and exhaust on my 5.2 and its pretty damn fast. id go with some shorty hearders "like mine" and a cam and youll be pushin around 220hp



Mikey
Dodge Dakota
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8/17/2006
09:28:25

RE: mild camshafts
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5.2 Dak
You would probably be around 245-250 with a good cam and a set of roller rockers.
Stock 5.2 is 230hp.
15-20 hp for a mild cam and 5hp for some 1.6 roller rockers.
Keep in mind thats not 250 rear wheel hp, expect to lose 20% or more depending on your drivetrain setup.
I think clint is including his drivetrain lose.

Specs are .432 of valve lift on the magnum engines.

Kowalski is right in that 1.7 roller rockers would be much easier, 3-4 Hours versus 16-20 Hours and you wouldn't even notice the difference, unless you want a wild cam.

Clint
It depends how much lift you are getting with your cam already, 1.7 rr puts you at about .450-.460 worth of lift.
If you want 1.7rr your cam should be ground accordingly which means more work for you .ie. new cam install.

If any of this is way off, feel free to correct me if I am wrong.

Have a nice day!




gen1dak
Dodge Dakota
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8/17/2006
12:10:06

RE: mild camshafts
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As already stated, the 5.2's have .432" gross valve lift. Do not get conned into using a 5.9 can, as it has less lift. The roller rockers are the quickest, easiest way to bump up the lift numbers, however, a better cam will also deliver a better profile for better overall results.

Specs:
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/gas/specs/5_2v8.htm

The stock exhaust manifolds aren't bad, even for mild engines. Naturally, you can always gain more with good headers. Your biggest restriction in the stock setup is the OEM-type muffler.



clint
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8/17/2006
16:59:22

RE: mild camshafts
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i have a mopar performance cam already but i bought the truck with it in it. so would anyone know the specs on that? what is the max lift i can get to before i have to worry about piston slap?

and i was couting the driveline loss. at the wheels a 5.2 has 180ish. so with a cam and rr you can prolly get it around 200 205. id go with headers and full exhaust then a full intake to get it breathing better b4 you pull the motor.



gen1dak
Dodge Dakota
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8/17/2006
19:54:12

RE: mild camshafts
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If you're speaking of the Magnum RT cam, it's a .458"/.467" intake/exhaust lift.
Get above about .520" lift and you run into rocker arm clearance issues, and the valve stem guides will have to be milled down to clear the rocker arms and allow higher lift cams. You still have plenty of room for piston/valve clearances...well beyond what is considered a streetable cam, as well as anything that would work in the Magnum head from a port flow/stall standpoint. Once you go that big, you're really in a situation where the W2 or W5 head is needed.



clint
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8/17/2006
22:46:15

RE: mild camshafts
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i understood about half of that. i got my part number for the cam today. is on that other post. is that an r/t cam? and lets say with that cam and 1.7rockers will i exceed 520? and once i get that much lift, is it still streetable? what were you sayin about that? im just lookin for a cheap way to get some extra power with out spending 1500 bucks on heads.



Mr Google
Dodge Dakota
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8/18/2006
00:47:12

RE: mild camshafts
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newbies, utilize the google search feature and discover the answers for yourselves. For example, I googled the m/p cam pn P5249549 and recieved many links that told me specifics on that cam. try it yourself and see.

for example, here ya go...
From http://moparsupercenter.com

Mopar Performance camshafts are designed, developed, dyno-tested and truck tested. These cms are for those interested in increased power as well as low-rpm torque. Each package includes the camshaft, cam lube, instruction sheets and roller lifters. For Magnum 5.2L/5.9L MPI engines. Features include: 260°/264° duration, .458"/.467" lift Recommended spring P5249464. Magnum R/T cam emissions exempt D265-11 through 2000 in CA, MA, NY only.

Notes: +46 HP and +51 lb/ft torque when R/T cam, HP air filter and HP engine controller are installed on engine. -Will not fit engine with mechanical fuel pump. -Not legal for sale on pollution-controlled vehicles or vehicles registered for highway use.




clint
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8/18/2006
17:46:01

RE: mild camshafts
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i did the yahoo search but i guess thats not too great. thanks for the info




gen1dak
Dodge Dakota
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8/18/2006
21:11:38

RE: mild camshafts
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If you already have the RT cam, you really don't need to step up the rocker ratio on a typical street-driven every day kind of truck. Your lift numbers in the .480-.490 inch range, and that'll chip away at low-end torque. Maximize the other areas around intake and exhaust. The Magnum RT cam is also, just in case, blower-friendly, if you're ever so inclined to slap a supercharger on.



clint
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8/18/2006
22:29:34

RE: mild camshafts
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thanks for that info!! im kinda missin the low end. it really dont pick up will aobut 3k. and i was thinkin about the rr but if that will decrease low end even more i wont waste the money. also i am planning on eventually blowin it. so thats a good thing. i have a full intake and full exhaust including headers. what eles can i do to improve bottom end?



gen1dak
Dodge Dakota
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8/19/2006
01:24:30

RE: mild camshafts
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Tried-and-true stuff. A hotter ignition advance, which in your case comes via the Mopar Performance computer...save the stock PCM for blower apps, or plan on getting a boost retard when the blower goes on. The MP PCM comes with the recommendation to run premium fuel, so that's another consideration, and they suggest you not tow with it (another reason to keep the stocker handy).

Hotter coil, 8mm ignition wires. High flow air filter, like K&N oiled cotton re-usable filters. 180-degree thermostat.

Gears. Going with a numerically higher set of gears will make a world of difference, but you will give up some mileage, particularly highway mileage.

Don't wanna change gears? A less expensive, but very good upgrade is an aftermarket higher stall torque converter, 2,400rpm stall or less, but not less than 2,000 rpm. This will let the engine wind up closer to it's current powerband more easily, making it much quicker in response and performance. Depending on the situation, you could actually see a modest improvement in fuel economy if you can keep your foot out of it. No promises, but performance will definitely improve, and you'll still have good cruising rpms because you haven't changed gears. Note that with higher stall converters, an external tranny cooler is even more vital. Get one. You may find that you need a limited slip diff after changing the converter because of the wheelspin.

For tranny longevity, as well as a great improvement, get a TransGo shift kit installed. The tranny will be more efficient, and you'll snare even more of the engine's output and sending it to the wheels.

So, first, all the small stuff, then tranny kit, then torque converter. High Perf. PCM if you are willing to buy premium. Finally, if all that doesn't do enough, gears.



gen1dak
Dodge Dakota
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8/19/2006
02:47:45

RE: mild camshafts
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That "boost retard" comment...I always do that. It's actually a timing retard that decreases ignition timing so when the boost comes up you don't blow the engine to smithereenies. It's gettin' late when I start typing dialogue that reads like Yosemite Sam.



piston slap
Dodge Dakota
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8/19/2006
06:51:20

RE: mild camshafts
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Piston slap refers to a piston that is sloppy in the bore; not the interference between piston and valve as it was used earlier in this thread.



clint
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8/19/2006
12:25:37

RE: mild camshafts
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like i said i bought the truck with some stuff done to it. it has a cold air intake and throttle body. also an intake manifold. idk what kind but i want to say mopar. it also wont hit a rev limiter until 6 grand. i know it has a shift kit but again i dont know what kind. i was told it has gears but not sure bout it. i dont know the ratio neither. but im almost 100% positive it has some kind of locker cuz i have NEVER gotten a one wheel spin out of it. that thing loves to slide!! it also rarley goes over 150 on the temp guage. especially when im runnin 55mph out faster. so it sounds like almost everything you mentioned except the converter is already done.



gen1dak
Dodge Dakota
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8/19/2006
23:03:28

RE: mild camshafts
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Yep, it does, but if it doesn't go over 150 on the temperature, it's too cold and not making full power. The computer will not allow the full advance and best performance fuel settings at that low temp. Many make the mistake of, "if a little is good, more is better," so if the 180 temp is good, a 160 degree temp should be better. It isn't. The 160 will keep the computer in a warm-up mode, which hurts performance potential.



clint
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8/20/2006
01:21:09

RE: mild camshafts
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i always wondered that and now i know. but ill change that out eventually. i mean on hot days it still gets up to about 210 if im at a stop light for awhile. but winter is acomin so ill deff. be needin the heat.



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