| From | Message |
Pete
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
7/27/2004
10:46:35
|
 Subject: gas guage
IP: Logged
Message:
Hello again,
I just got my new Dakota V6 and was a bit surprised that after only 150 miles the guage was almost on empty and the gas light came on. Then when I went to the pump, it only took 10 gallons and was full again. Has this happened to anyone else? Weird...
Thanks for the help.
|
?
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
7/27/2004
15:13:20
|  RE: gas guage
IP: Logged
Message:
What size tank ??
Maybe you only have a 12 gallon tank ??
|
Pete
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
7/27/2004
17:45:22
| RE: gas guage
IP: Logged
Message:
I thought they all came with 20 or 22 gallon tanks....
Thanks though. I'll check. That would make me happy.
|
daddio
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
7/27/2004
17:54:52
| RE: gas guage
IP: Logged
Message:
what you got? RC, CC, QC?
correct me if i'm wrong but, RC- 15 w/ 20 opt, CC 20 w/ 22 opt, QC 22 w/ 24 opt.
|
Pete
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
7/27/2004
17:56:10
| RE: gas guage
IP: Logged
Message:
Its a regular cab.
Thanks again for the help. I really love the truck.
|
dave1986
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/08/2004
22:52:10
| RE: gas guage
IP: Logged
Message:
when is bought my 95 dakota about a 6 months ago the gas gauge was broken ( always on E). I Just want to know if anyone knows the most common problem?
|
dak03ota
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/09/2004
00:38:22
| RE: gas guage
IP: Logged
Message:
Hmmm....that sounds a little strange. You said new truck...does that mean new as in '04? I have a 2003 Reg cab and a 20 gallon gas tank was listed on the window sticker as a standard feature. I know that very little changes(other than the engine)have been made to the '04's in comparison to the '03's. I would take it back to get the gauge looked at.
|
boardmarine
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/09/2004
04:03:21
|  RE: gas guage
IP: Logged
Message:
Most of the time with a gas guage(that's bad) the float switch sticks inside of the tank. When that switch sees a negitive potential you're on E! Kind of a pain to get to but it's easier than ripping your dash apart!
|
mhall02
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/09/2004
10:25:37
| RE: gas guage
IP: Logged
Message:
Dave 1986,
It is a pretty common problem w/ the Gen 2 Dakotas to have gas gauge problems, they are either erattic (bounce all over the place) or don't work at all. Do a search on this web page, there are a number of posts on this issue.
|
Steve Calabro
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/09/2004
22:09:52
| RE: gas guage
IP: Logged
Message:
mine on my 96 doesnt work, always on E. to make sure it is you fuel level sensor, undo the connection to the unit on top of the tank and start putting a wire onto the connectors and connect the wire to the frame(ground it out) if the gague reads full when you do this, it is the fuel level sensor.
on the bottom of your fuel tank is a circle with your gas tank capacity inside of it. just look under your truck to find out. Steve
|
outcast
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/10/2004
11:56:29
| RE: gas guage
IP: Logged
Message:
hey guys my 92 has a 15 gal tank and the fuel guage bounces to the 1/2 line then stops, so i tried steve's ground it out idea, which "filled" the tank. so do i need a new sensor or what and if so where would i get it from. thanks
|
Dan M
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/10/2004
16:37:07
| RE: gas guage
IP: Logged
Message:
My '95 Ext Cab 4x4 with 3.9 has 20 gallon tank. not sure if that was an option or standard at the time.
My gas guage is flaking out again ( this happened once about 4-5 years ago). Now, when i get below 1/2 tank, the needle bounces around and i can't rely on it. so far the the low gas light has worked fine. Now , I reset the trip counter at every fill up and i know it's time to get more gas when I hit 200 miles (though I should be able to go until 300-350).
Last time this happened it was the floater in the tank. I'm not willing to hunt down the issue nor pay someone since I reset the trip counter at fill up anyway, now I just need to remember to fill up around 200 miles.
|
Steve Calabro
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/10/2004
17:47:45
| RE: gas guage
IP: Logged
Message:
to fix the gague, you need to replace the entire fuel pump module. it includes the pump, level sensor, and filter. it costs about 250-300 bucks new and it is on top of the tank so you have to lift your bed to get it off/on. i would suggest to just do what dan and i do which is to just use the trip and fill up every 150-200 miles. Steve
|
outcast
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/10/2004
22:46:49
| RE: gas guage
IP: Logged
Message:
i hate to be a bother but what does the pump have to do with the guage i mean if the pump was junk it wouldn't run rite. and the filter (that i'm aware of) is not in in the tank. maybe yours is diffrent 'steve'
so anyway why did i see a fuel level sensor period for sale on jc wittney.
besides i haul some gas guzlingly heavy loads every now and then. plus winter is not kind to my mpg. so i really want some sort of redneck fix or city boy solution.
thanks
|
857pop
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/11/2004
01:44:14
| RE: gas guage
IP: Logged
Message:
Hehe.......more than likely you DO NOT need a "new" sending unit, or a fuel level float unit.
I have a 95 dak too. About 3-4 years ago my guage started bouncing all over the place. Then it went almost dead. I say almost, because when you would fill the tank full, the gauge would read correctly, FULL. Then as I would put miles on the truck, it would "stick" at 3/4 of a tank. The low level light never came on either. I had to use the trip meter trick and reset that after every fill up.
Well, 3 years later I finaly said screw it, I'm going to fix it. I lifted the bed off the truck (8 bolts for me, easy to get to and do)
Once I had access to the fuel tank I got the whole fuel pump assembly out of there. The float level unit is attached by 2 screws to the fuel pump. I unscrewed these 2 screws to get the float unit off the fuel pump. I let it air dry for a few hours, then took a good look at it.
Sure enough, at the 3/4 mark (roughly) there were what appeared to be scorch marks. I took a #2 pencil and used the eraser to erase the scorch marks. It looked brand new. Next, I took a hammer and GENTLY forced the pin out of the arm that holds the float. (using a small nail as a punch to the pin) Once I could get the arm off, I had access to the actual metal like "springs" (for lack of a better term) that made contact on the resistors. I took the eraser to them as well. It looked brand new.
** Note** Gently bend these "springs" down a bit so that when you put it back together it makes good contact with the resistors. Put the whole thing back together, installed back into the tank, and it works perfectly. I had very little to no gas in the tank. As soon as I hit the power in the cab, the gauge went from 3/4 full to empty, and the low fuel light came on.
EURRREEEEEKAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!
Filled it up and watched the gauge at the same time, went to full slowly as I pumped in the gas. I have since emptied the tank (normal driving) and the gauge works perfectly as it should. I had the whole range, from full to empty and everything works great now. Hell of a lot better than spending $300+ for the whole shabang, that is more than likely NOT broken to begin with.
One last very important note. When reinserting the fuel pump into the tank, WATCH THE FLOAT ARM, and make sure that it is LONGWAYS, with the tank. If it's not, the float will get stuck on the side of the tank. I know this because.....well just trust me, the last thing you want to do is take the bed off.....AGAIN!
If you're taking the bed off, (easier IMHO) make sure you disconect all brake lights, and you will have to drop the spare tire too, to get that rod out. The rod that you use to drop down the spare tire. I'd say overall this job was very easy. Just messy and time consuming. About a day.
|
outcast
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/11/2004
17:00:16
|  RE: gas guage
IP: Logged
Message:
857pop--you said "what appeared to be scorch marks." i'm thinking burn type of mark.
do you think it would be easer to drop the tank or what i like to know what i'm getting into before i dive in.
would it be "easy" for two 17 year old kids who have a good mechanical rep with our buddys and folks
'cause if your wrong (doubtful) then we are out of bissness and i'm out of a daily driver.
if anyone else has done this could you back him up since i'm a newbe and still suspicious
thanks
|
rhinofromwa
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/11/2004
17:35:47
| RE: gas guage
IP: Logged
Message:
My old 88 Ranger had a sensor problem and I replaced it farely cheaply on the ford. I did drop the tank....ran it mostly empty...it would be a handful to do it when it was full. lol It lasted for about 2 years then acted up again....going from full to 1/3 full and holding then dropping to empty.
My dakota seems pretty on the spot. ('00 CC 3.9L 5spd) and the fuel warning light comes on with 5 gallons or around 100 miles left on the tank. It seams early to me but it nice bombing across Eastern WA not to have to worry about it. I still track my trip meeter like I did on my old Ranger...old habit I guess. I also note when teh bell goes off and how much is left when I fill my 22gallon tank.
Just guessing....but if he only put in 10 gallons and he has a 15 gallon tank then that is about right. If his sensor goes off with 5 gallons left in it...like mine does.
Now 150 miles on 10 gallons seem a little suspect...maybe it wasn't topped off before resetting the trip meeter?
|
rhinofromwa
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/11/2004
17:38:42
|  RE: gas guage
IP: Logged
Message:
Fogive me....I don't proof read what I type most of the time....and I don't think I can edit it.
Meter not Meeter.
Ashamed in Lynnwood WA
|
Farmer86
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/11/2004
17:42:47
| RE: gas guage
IP: Logged
Message:
I've got a 98 3.9 5spd xcab.
My fuel light used to come on at about 50-60L. and after R&R the pump, she reads true. I also have a 22Gal/88L. tank.
Fuel Pump inspection/removal...This is redneck but worked for me.
- Removed my boxliner.
- Drilled 4 1" holes in the bed to make a 12"X12" square around the top of the pump ass'y. You can see/feel where the pump ass'y is.
- Used a Saws-all to cut the square out.
- Used a hammer and big screwdriver to loosen the threaded cap.
- Riveted sheet metal on all sides of hole to reattach the square I took out.
When you're from the farm up north you just gotta make it work.
|
857pop
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/11/2004
17:51:44
| RE: gas guage
IP: Logged
Message:
Outcast,
Easy? Put it this way....if I had to do it all over again, it would take about 3 hrs, start to finish. Only because I have the experience now.
In my opinion, Raising the bed is much easier than dropping the tank. There are some tips and tricks to this whole process as well. For instance, you really need a 3rd hand for about 30 seconds........because when the bed is "free" and you begin to lift it up and slide it back....the front part of the bed "catches" on something up near the cab. Solution: 3rd hand places a 2X4 (or whatever) under the front part of the bed as the other 2 people lift the FRONT part of the bed. Once the 2x4 has been placed under the bed, you can lower the bed. Then move to the wheel wells on either side, and lift it up and back.........all you are trying to do is lift the BACK part of the bed ABOVE the rear bumper....once you have done this, slide the whole bed back about 3 feet, and let it rest on the bumper.....this will give you FULL access to the fuel pump assembly.
Next trick.....the plastic "nut" that locks the whole assembly onto the gas tank is a biaaatch to get off by hand. So, take a flat head screw driver (a really big one) and a hammer....and use the screw driver as a punch, so to speak. The "nut" has plastic ridges on the top of it. If you place the screwdriver head behind these ridges and gently TAP it with the hammer, you will slowly but surely see it start to turn. After you initialy get it loose, you can unscrew it the rest of the way by hand.
Once you have the fuel pump and float out of the tank, unscrew the float arm assembly from the pump and do what I said in the post above to "fix" it. Clean it good with an eraser, and clean the copper like springs (that hit the resistors) (you'll see) and BE SURE to bend them down gently so they make better contact with the resistors. Put everything back together, make sure the Float arm goes with the length of the tank (ie, floats freely inside the tank) and you're done.
IF you are going to try this, the first thing you need to do is disconnect the negative battery cable.......and THEN release the pressure in the fuel lines. I can't even begin to explain how you do that. However, Releasing the fuel pressure in the system, is even easier than disconnecting the battery cable. It was so easy to fix, I'm going to help a friend do his on Monday, and don't plan on spending more than 3 hrs on the job. Simple.
|
lsdak02
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/11/2004
17:52:28
|  RE: gas guage
IP: Logged
Message:
I have a 02 4x4 and my fuel light come on at 300 miles with 6 gallons left on it. 22 gallons fuel tank.
|
| | P 1 Next Page>> |
