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justin
Dodge Dakota
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5/11/2004
18:16:55
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 Subject: Ball joints
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I am noticing a loud pop when i first start the vehicle and turn out of my driveway or whereever i am, could this be my ball joints and could i get teh dealer to replace them on the recall?
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sport02
Dodge Dakota
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5/11/2004
23:21:31
|  RE: Ball joints
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I've had the same problems as well. took my truck for a front end alignment last week and they said they could not align it cause the upper ball joints were shot. I have 27,000 mile on my truck, the dealer replaced them under warranty but i'm wondering how long the ones they put on are gonna last!! the ball joints suck!!! if your truck is out of warranty, get some aftermarket ball joints, dont even bother putting mopar ones back on there. If its under warranty then you get free ones, cause i would not pay for them
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frebius
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
5/12/2004
00:34:12
| RE: Ball joints
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I don't know if this helps any but I just had to replace all of my ball joints but I have a little over 90k on my '99
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justin
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
5/12/2004
00:53:10
| RE: Ball joints
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well i got over 170k on my 97, and I am not sure if the ball joints, upper or lower have been replaced, I know they haven't been replaced since 128k, so i should go get some new upper and lower ones?
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CP
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
5/13/2004
17:10:29
| RE: Ball joints
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Message:
I always regret posting to this forum but here goes...
I drive a 91 dakota 4x4 shortbed & has about 130k on original front end (except shocks and pitman arm). I replaced all of the front-end except tierod ends, swaybar bushings and steering gear (but will do them in a week). For those keepin score that is Upper balljoint both sides, lower balljoint both sides, upper control arm bushings both sides, there is no service on lower control arm bushing (replace whole arm only), axles, wheel beering/hubs both sides, loaded calipers both sides, turned rotors, and shocks. I still need bushings on the sway bar and ANOTHER pitman arm. The results are excellent. No popping, tight response, no misc noise rolling down the road. But those parts set me back $700 and an alignment. The various noises and sensations come from different worn suspension and steering parts. MY POINT? As you remove the balljoints, inspect the bolts on the control arms, the control arm bushings, shock bushings, wheel hub, and calipers for rattles and wear. If your balljoints are shot I bet that other parts are getting additional wear due to worn suspension parts. I cant wait till this rebuild is done. It already performs better than it did ten years ago, and the new balljoints are all greasable!! You will need an alignment if you remove the upper control arms unless you are Jesus Christ with an impact wrench. How did all the old parts look? Control arm bushings very close to failure, lower balljoints very worn, upper b/j's worn but ok, shocks replaced because one leaked, hubs very worn and dangerous, axles are still good and will be installed on another Dakota in the familia. I can see tierod ends both sides inner and outer are shot without removing them. I can trace the slight play thats left in the steering to the steering gear and pitman.
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another mark
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
5/13/2004
18:02:11
| RE: Ball joints
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"Jesus Christ with an impact wrench"
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
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Mustang Man
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
5/14/2004
10:33:33
| RE: Ball joints
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Message:
Check out your J.C. Whitney catalog (everyone has one, right?) for ball joints and tie rod ends. They carry Moog, which is probably the best in ball joints. They are a lot heavier duty than stock and come with zerk fittings to grease them regularly. Best of all, they're a lot cheaper than the almighty AutoZone!
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Dr mike
Dodge Dakota
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5/14/2004
11:27:27
| RE: Ball joints
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I've heard that popping sound...Mine on my 97 self-destructed a month ago. Driving about 50-60, hit a very small pot hole, smash! everything on the right side let loose! Not good... Upper ball joint, bent the control arms, trashed the brake lines and hoses, bent the inner fender all up... $450.00 later all fixed... If it's popping, don't wait, fix it before it lets go.... don't wait...
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CP
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
5/14/2004
12:17:54
| RE: Ball joints
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YESS! What the Dr. ordered!! Wait, let us know how you managed to only fork out $450.
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Dr. Mike
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
5/14/2004
12:30:25
| RE: Ball joints
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That price even included new brake pads and turning the rotors! 450.00? Cash Deal...LOL I have a friend in the autobody business... parts at cost, labor 1/2 price, and no sales tax to Uncle Sam...
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CP
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
5/17/2004
09:22:14
| RE: Ball joints
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My connection works at a napa autocenter. He ordered the parts at his shop at cost. No charge for turning as we did it at his work on saturday. I picked up the tierod ends, pitman arm, and steering gear last week, but I can't imagine the performance and handling improving much more. It's already like a new sport truck.
91 4x4 ATX 3.9l V6 shortbed. Monroe sens-a-trac, BlackMagic 150 Elec. fan, 185deg t-stat, Cat-back dual exhaust, tint, Double-Roller timing chain without the stupid unnecessary tensioner, and K&N airfilter. NOW moog greasable balljoints, but the new hubs will eventually dry up I'm sure.
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?
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
5/17/2004
13:24:54
| RE: Ball joints
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Message:
Most newer trucks have ball joints
with NO grease fittings..
Supposed to be " lifetime lubricated "
Whose/what lifetime = bullcrap would work better.
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04Dakota4x4
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
5/17/2004
21:40:15
| RE: Ball joints
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Message:
I have a 2004 with 9k miles on it. When I turn the wheel full steering to either side, it makes a disturbing popping sound. My ball joints couldn't be ball already, could they? Maybe they were just defective fromt the start. I also noticed it today when pulling out of a driveway with a dip at the bottom. I was pulling out to the left, hit the dip, and I heard that same popping sound as when making low speed turns at full steering lock.
Suggestion, comments?? ;)
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RedSniper03
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
5/18/2004
22:59:49
| RE: Ball joints
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Message:
there is a way to check ur ball joints to see if they r bad u have to jack up ur vehcile preffable while ur truck is on a hydro lift but if not i can image u can still do it but anyways u have to jack ur ride up underneath the lower a arm to release weight off the upper ball joint or follwer joint and then push and pull on ur tire if the upper (follower) joint moves at all it needs to be replaced the lower ball joint or load carrier can have some looseness but shouldnt be over1/4 of a inch also while doing this get someone to hold ur brake cause a bad wheel bearing could cause movement as well with brake down and u still have movement its ur balljoints if movement stops bad wheel bearing but thats how u check to c if u have bad ball joints
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Desert Dakota
GenIII
5/18/2004
23:46:18
| RE: Ball joints
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Message:
I thought my ball joints were popping and it turned out to be the bushing right in the center of the Rack assembly. The entire steering rack would move up and down as I turned the steering first one way and then the other.
Everything's quiet now. the bushings cost $22.00
and the labor $76.00. Then of course a wheel alignment job for another $50.00.
IT'S JUST A DRY HEAT
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watkinstick
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
5/20/2004
13:35:02
| RE: Ball joints
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Well I know this is not about ball joints but I lost my power steering Sunday at the lake when I was turning around to leave. But I am glad that I am not going to have to pay for it though, someone told me that they would do it for my graduation. Has anyone else had a problem with their power steering?
Oh and something elseI was under the truck the other day to do the sensor-timing advance mod and I noticed that the bushing on my upper control arms are junk. I guess this is a recurring problem because I read a statement at speedtweaks.ca about it. How much trouble are these to change out? and I guess I will go ahead and change out the bushing on both sides and I guess I'll go ahead and change my swaybar end links too. I hope this will give me a smoother ride.
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JoesDak
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
5/22/2004
06:32:19
| RE: Ball joints
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Message:
I have a 99 with 69k miles and for the last 5k miles ive had a popping sound coming from the front end.Sounded like my Rack n Pinoin was going out again(replaced 4 times last year). But ive had it in at the dealer and midas where a friend works and both of them couldnt find anything wrong.The noise keeps geting worse but i guess if anything happens they will be in some sh*t for it.Any one know what i could check out??
Upper ball joints were replaced last spring
Steering shaft replaced a few days after that
Then aftre all that was done they started on the Rack.About 4 times in 3 months.Theres been other things break but nothing to do with this noise.
Thanks
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Desert Dakota
GenIII
5/22/2004
11:20:34
|  RE: Ball joints
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Message:
My R&P bushings went out too soon because I was running 16" wheels with tires way too big. The extra stress on the Rack & Pinion system contributed to the wearing out of the R&P bushings and dropped gas mileage to 12mpg.
I'm back to 15" wheels with 235/75 R15's and
my mileage went up (16mpg) along with less strain on the
front end. I use 35 psi tire pressure on all four.
IT'S JUST A DRY HEAT
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Wildon1
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
5/26/2004
00:51:17
| RE: Ball joints
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Message:
Did my 97 Dakota last month, upper & Lower ball joints W/Moog and perfomance suspension Polyuerathane bushings including swaybar. WOWWW What a differance in handling, this thing is as tight as a corvette now. NO MORE noises or slop
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Karas
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/18/2005
13:40:25
| RE: Ball joints
IP: Logged
Message:
99 Dodge Dakota truck with 62,000 miles
First ball joint replacement was done under warranty. Second, had to pay out of pocket. Now going on third replacement, and will have to pay that one also.
wish I didn't buy a Dodge.....
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galin
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
10/26/2008
18:27:21
| RE: Ball joints
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Message:
Does anybody have a clear step-by-step for changing out the ball joints/hub? I have the repair manual but of course it covers 3 models over 10 years and the limited pictures look like they were taken in the 1940s.
From what I gather, the biggest hurdle is getting the ball joints out. Someone suggested using a torch then drilling the holes out and using bolts to re-install. Does this seem to be the best option?
If I end up doing this myself, I'll take some good pictures and post a tutorial.
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