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7/13/2012
01:30:34

Subject: dodge dakota
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92 Dakota: I found several splices in the harness under the fuse/relay box. None looked bad but I respliced them. Did not help the problem. Took it to a mechanic and they found that the computer was bad. I suspected that that was the problem but it would have been an expensive guess. Anyway, problem solved. Runs good for 20 years old.



Mel
Dodge Dakota
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2/20/2013
22:22:14

Dodge Dakota ASD Relay
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I have a 1989 Dakota with 3.9L V6. Same thing turns over won't start, no power to coil, changed pickup in the distributor started up and ran great, one hour later won't start again. Checking all this stuff I've read on here, probably going to end up buying a new computer and hope it fix's it. I wonder if I can put a regular 2bbl carb, point distributor, bolt on electric fuel pump w/regulator, and bypass the whole computerized mess!!?? Old school with no computer, no sensors, no smog pump, no catalytic converter...?



Mel
Dodge Dakota
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2/27/2013
09:04:17

Dodge Dakota won't start!
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Well...I went and bought a remanufactured computer for $125.00 and it STILL WONT START! I'm thinking of changing the crank sensor but I really don't see how that would prevent 12 volts to the coil when I turn the switch on.



Mel
Dodge Dakota
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2/27/2013
10:35:49

Dodge Dakota won't start!
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Well...I went and bought a remanufactured computer for $125.00 and it STILL WONT START! I'm thinking of changing the crank sensor but I really don't see how that would prevent 12 volts to the coil when I turn the switch on.



daddio
Dodge Dakota
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2/27/2013
13:19:00

Dodge Dakota won't start
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Did you check the splice just below the underhood fusebox? 3 wires into one red or red/white. This splice distributes power to the fuel pump, coil and PCM. A very common problem on older Daks. The splice gets corroded. re-splice, best if you can solder it up then tape.



Carl
Dodge Dakota
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7/26/2015
11:35:52

97 dodge dakota
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97 Dodge Dakota v8 auto..Have the same no
starting issue at times..I have replaced the
computer, alternator, battery, asd modules,
checked and fixed any bad wires,crank position
sensor, and checked the fuel pump to be good.
It might run 10 minutes or 2 days then it just
shuts down. I can swap the asd module to the
fuel pump and go for 10 minutes or 2 days
again..Im gonna check the spice you guys speak
of but does anyone have any new info would
help..ty



Robert M
Dodge Dakota
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11/18/2016
03:47:17

gPgwdRBcatfKx
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In my case, a recently acquired 98 Dakota, the
engine runs as long as external fuel is supplied,
eg. starting fluid into throttle body, etc. The
fuel pump can be heard as normal. Fuel pressure
seems adequate in fuel rail (tubes to injectors).
If the fuel injectors were supplying the
combustion chambers properly, the engine should
run.

The fuel injectors test okay, according to 97-99
Haynes Repair Manual which says to test for ASD
(automatic shut down). With ignition switch off,
remove injector connectors, test for specified
resistance across the two (about 12.5 ohms). With
ignition on, voltage should be battery level on
one, very low on the other (less than 1 volt),

The injectors test normal, because these operating
components are not defective; the voltage
necessary for them to operate is being shut off by
the PCM.

When the ignition switch is on, all injectors, as
well as other devices connected to a multiple, or
"3-way" splice, should be getting battery voltage,
so hot wiring the splice should prevent ASD (auto
shut down), for any reason, by PCM (powertrain
control monitor/module) sensor responses:
injectors, fuel pump, coil, and whatever?

This is exactly the same as when I hot wired the
coil of my 88 Dakota. I found there was a
green wire splice that connected the coil to the
fuel pump, windshield wiper motor, blower motor,
and more.

This hot wire "fixes" several problems, but
disconnect it when not driving, and turn the key
off. I also had to disconnect the battery ground
at the post or the battery would drain down. These
problems were "intermittent", that is,
occasionally the engine would run normally.

Either there is a bad connection somewhere, or a
bad sensor, or, I suppose, the PCM itself. That is
why the problem can have so many different
"cures."

Don't replace any suggested "expensive" devices,
until you have checked this, because this defect
will likely repeat or show up on another device
later.

Just like trying to run several appliances on the
same circuit at home; eventually the circuit
breaker, not available here, will trip, and none
of the appliances will run.

Basically, these problems are due to an overloaded
circuit.




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