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07:09:32 - 04/29/2024
V6 Dakotas
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vern
Dodge Dakota
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1/09/2004
16:02:32
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 Subject: RE: 92 V6 stall and back fire
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if its been backfiring much it could blow out
the egr and the plenum gasket[thats under the intake]
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Wadak
Dodge Dakota
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1/09/2004
16:16:56
| RE: 92 V6 stall and back fire
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I had a 1987 Dodge Dakota that developed a backfire on acceleration. The truck was in need of a complete tune-up, so I replaced the cap, rotor, plug wires and plugs. All of this helped, but it would still backfire on acceleration. I changed the coil also, no help. The problem turned out to be a couple of corroded connections on the plug connected to the computer. I cleaned up the connections with rubbing alcohol and a couple of q-tips, that solved my problem.
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Eva
Dodge Dakota
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1/09/2004
16:26:05
| RE: 92 V6 stall and back fire
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Awesome thanks, I haven't gotten to checking the wire connections yet... I should get on it. I've replaced everything you've mentioned including the distributer and the crank positioning sensor... hopefully after the EGR check and wiring check I'll have an answer.
Thanks for the input adn cross your fingers for me.
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Eva
Dodge Dakota
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1/09/2004
16:28:20
| RE: 92 V6 stall and back fire
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One more thing... There should be a gasket under the throttle body correct... While replacing the map sensor I noticed that there wasn't one... could this be a contributer??? I know it's not the problem, but just curious.
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Wadak
Dodge Dakota
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1/09/2004
23:37:42
| RE: 92 V6 stall and back fire
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Yes there should be a gasket under the throttlebody, if there isn't, air could get past the throttle plates and cause an increase in idle, it could also lean out the air to fuel mixture. By the way, have you had the Oxygen Sensor checked or changed? When they go bad they can cause a power loss and mileage to go down. I had a Dodge Caravan that had the fuel mixture richen up considerably, cause very weird problems. As a rule on the Gen 2 Daks, the O2 sensor will only last between 50 and 60 thousand miles.
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Eva
Dodge Dakota
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1/12/2004
14:18:07
| RE: 92 V6 stall and back fire
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Yes the O2 has been checked, and readign fine... If it's a cheap part it would probably be a good idea to replace it... I don't know if it's the weather or what, but haven't had too many problems lately... not stalled in three or four days and maybe two or four bad starts in that time... usually all that happens in one single day???
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dre
Dodge Dakota
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1/12/2004
19:55:02
|  RE: 92 V6 stall and back fire
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Eva I've got a 92 dak that had the same thing going on with it. My problem was the distributor and gear at the base of the distributor.
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Dianes 88 Dak
GenI
1/13/2004
04:18:51
| RE: 92 V6 stall and back fire
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Hi Everyone,
Haven't had a chance to come to the forum as much lately, but I'm still having problems with my 88.
I've been watching this post as my truck is having the same symptoms as yours Eva, but has just gotten worse in the last few days.
At first I got a couple codes that Larry, J&J Auto, help me with. I started out replacing TPS and coolant temp sensor. Truck ran really good for about 125 miles then it started it all over again. Then replaced the EGR Valve, checked wiring(that crappy clothe tape has been removed and conectors have already been redone at some point in time and have heat shrink tubing on them. I'm going to open them up next just to see if they were done right or coming loose.
Have cleaned the connecting plug on the computer and put new dielectric greese on prongs & connector, wires there look good.
After reading this post last week and an older one, I checked the distributor. Rotor was burnt pretty bad, replaced it and dist. cap. Ran real good again, but only for a few days. Plugs and wires look good, but will replace Wed. or Thurs., ordered wires from Summit.
Replaced Hall Effect Pick-up last Fri. Run's worse after replacing it. Dosen't want to idle at all now. There were a couple little pieces of it, black plastic, laying in the bottom of dist, but the Interuptor(it's called on 88, 3.9 in mopar manual), is in the way and couldn't get both of them out. Also, the Interuptor sure seems to have more play than it should and its white plastic with four blades sticking up. I thought I read in a post here that you could punch out the pin that holds it in and replace it, but, the dealer here said they didn't show the part by its self. Gonna pull the dist and a least get anymore plastic out, thinking maybe there's more in there that's keeping it from spinning correctly.
Dist. for my truck is $96. at mopar here and don't come with hall effect pick up, so at least I have a new one if I have to replace dist. Does this sound like a possibility, Guys? I'm not so sure I acually need to replace the dist, since it didn't make a differance for Eva.
Anyway, truck is worse after replacing Hall EPU. Wants to die even more now and is back firing worse. The backfiring wasn't very bad before hand. I'm not going to drive it till we get it figured out so I don't screw up the new exhaust system.
Eva, hopefully we'll get our trucks figured out soon, before they send us to the poor house, LOL. Good Luck to you.
Diane's 88 Dakota [
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Mark green 92
Dodge Dakota
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1/13/2004
21:10:59
| RE: 92 V6 stall and back fire
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Eva keep us posted, confirm if your tb gasket is missing and replace it, they are not much money. If your problem seems to be weather influenced, it could be an electrical related problem.
Diane, I don't have a good guess as to the problem. My 1st gen engine is still in the garage partially assembled for a future car project, but it’s that whole money thing. What I remember is that is the 1st year for throttle body fuel injection. The distributor drive/ intermediate gear is a problem peculiar to the 92 magnums and a lack of proper hardness of the intermediate gear. However, the plastic should not be interfering with distributor rotation. Something will break, the plastic debris, or the plastic that holds the interruptor. I listed all the terms I could think of not knowing which one the service manual called it or what people were familiar with. Something to check is to see if the interruptor is loose on the plastic base. Grab the tabs and see if they move independently of the distributor shaft. I don't like the fact that the plastic part is not serviced, one got loose on an 80's fwd car and had a dead cylinder because the hall effect sensor cut one of the tabs off, imagine the aggravation. A quick fix is to drill out one or more or the plastic rivets and repair with pop rivet(s). Or you can use a soldering pencil and try to re-weld the rivets. This doesn't always work and you have to be careful not to burn your fingers. With your truck (not knowing what has already been posted) keeping with cheap stuff first, have you checked all the vacuum lines? Leaks can cause problems, and if it has not been done since you got it, retrace the lines and see if the previous owner( unless that is you) had rerouted something in error. Again rather than use the shotgun approach to auto repair, open the hood, empty both barrels and replace everything with a hole in it, start small and use any troubleshooting guides you can acquire. Also, is there anyone in your area with an 88 model that you can share known good parts with? If you are trying to keep costs low having a friend with a running truck who will help you,can make life easier, just a thought. It's good to hear that Larry has been helping you, usually someone else here has experienced a similar problem and can offer a solution.
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B.B. Mac
Dodge Dakota
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1/13/2004
22:36:20
| RE: 92 V6 stall and back fire
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Check Your coil pack it has been known to cause this. It might be cracked or just need replaced.
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Dianes 88 Dak
GenI
1/14/2004
12:34:55
| RE: 92 V6 stall and back fire
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Thank you all.
We haven't found any vacumm leaks and everything looks to be where it belongs, there are a couple hoses that have plugs in them, but come from underneth and seem to maybe look like they could go to AC, they are bigger than vaccum lines, haven't traced them down yet as they don't seem important.
I checked in the TB several times and it's always been clean in the bottom. One thought on this that has just dawned on me. It looks like oil is leaking at the rear sides of both valve covers although doesn't seem to be coming from there & gaskets are fairly new. Looks like oil could just be running around seam from somewhere else. We can't find where it's coming from, we're are going to pull them eventually, but didn't really think this was a major problem since it's not leaking that much oil. We can't figure it out. Doesn't leak a lot, but I was thinking, could the plenum or intake gasket be leaking below instead of where it would put oil in the the TB and loosing vacuum here instead? TB is very clean inside on bottom.
The coil might be a good thing to check, even though in looks fairly new.
Just got this truck beginning of Dec. Previous owner had 3 vehicles and truck sat for better of the last year, except for bad weather. Drove it home from Ohio to mid MO. After about 105 miles it stalled on the highway as I slowed to let a semi over, I was doing about 80 and let off and it just died like someone turned the key off, for next 100 miles it would need gas to keep from dying when getting off the highway, then ran okay rest of way home.
The first problems were it just didn't have any low end, take off power and I was getting the TPS & Engine temp sensor codes. Changed the exaust system first off. Removed the cat, which was almost completely clogged and haven't put new one on, yet. We just bolted on the new flownmaster for now cause I need to get some pipes custom made. Anyway, Drove it for about a week and then it started stalling again when you'd let off the gas or it would idle real irraticly, but not every start, weather didn't seem to play a big part on it, just slighly if it was really wet out.
One day coming home from work, it reved its self up just like the cruise was set, which doesn't work at moment. I drove it 20 miles without giving it any gas, possessed. That was basicly the begining of getting codes and the start of the problems, kept getting codes for lean conditions mostly. As of late the only code is 55, end of check, I was getting the 12 then 55 after removing neg cable to put on the new parts. I guess it could be possible the computor is going out? I would think it would just keep get worse and worse till not starting, but it always(so far) starts right up. Best improvement was after putting in the new rotor and cap. Ran really smooth, but only lasted about 100 miles, then idle got irratic again. I'm hoping my new wires get here today like they are suppose to be. Maybe I have a bad one and after putting on the new cap caused it to make better contact till I hit bumps on a gravel road I was on.
No one else here in the little town of Hermann with a 88 that I know of. I'm sorry these are so long, I tried not to add to much of the symtoms that were the same as Eva's.
I'll let you know what I find out today if wires come.
You guys here are great!
Diane's 88 Dakota [
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Eva
Dodge Dakota
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1/15/2004
12:26:37
| RE: 92 V6 stall and back fire
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Went and got the throttle body base gasket.. will be putting it in tonight... I had to cancel a credit card that got lost in the mail... so part replacement is working on real money (which I don't have much of).
Diane I am sorry to hear about your 88, although I did find a post in researching my own problems that mentioned that the intake gasket is a common early wear out... you might check that, it creates an internal vacuum leak. I don't know if you are familiar with it, but it's under the intake manifold?? I envy you that your truck actually is throwing codes as mine is not...
I'm sorry I have not been able to check the EGR nor trace the wiring yet... also there are two O2 sensors, I did not know this. I went to get a price check yesterday and there is an in flow and out flow (for lack of a better word) 02. Are either of you familiar with this? And as a note, my truck does not seem to favor the damp nor the extreme colds very well, mostly the damp though, wet seems ok, but humidity...
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Dianes 88 Dak
GenI
1/15/2004
12:58:28
| RE: 92 V6 stall and back fire
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I've thought about the intake, but it seems to me it would pretty much run bad all the time with that problem, don't you's think so? I put in plugs last night, but got cold so I'll do the new wires today sometime. I'm gonna pull the coil off and see if someone here in town can check it for me, closest Auto Zone is 35 min. All I have is a small test meter, not sure I can check it right with it.
Also, this weekend going to pull the dist. and check the plate, etc.
Eva, when we put on the new EGR it helped for a few trips to town then ran bad again.
About the o2's. My truck is suppose to only have one at the y pipe, I've been told and from what I can tell in my mopar manual. Someone has changed the exhaust manifolds at some point in time and it has a o2 on the drivers side that is not hooked up. Makes me wonder what all has been done to my truck that could be throwing off our trouble shooting.
Diane's 88 Dakota [
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Mark green 92
Dodge Dakota
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1/15/2004
14:26:30
| RE: 92 V6 stall and back fire
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I have not seen the California emissions on a 92 model, it probably has one O2 sensor before and one after the catalytic converter. If it is like the newer models, the one that fails is usually the more expensive of the two. If you have the federal emissions system, there should only be 1 O2 sensor, it is on the passenger’s side Y pipe next to the transmission. There are 2 O2 sensors listed for these trucks (federal emissions), most parts stores identify them by the length of the electrical pigtail. Now on the 88 intake manifold, I am almost certain (working off memory again) that it is a one piece design. It seems to me that the magnum engine has the removable pan due to manufacturing requirements, it can't be cast in one piece.
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vern
Dodge Dakota
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1/15/2004
14:31:19
| RE: 92 V6 stall and back fire
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it,s very hard to trouble shoot problems over the net,but given the problem you two lady,s are having first try the common things and the trouble areas.
cracked dist cap,bad plug wires and/or plugs
dist bad,pick-up in dist having intermit problem
[this in turn will cause fuel pump to turn off/on]
coil over heating/cracked jumping fire-sets cools off,works again/cracked back firing,runs like sh!t
in damp/rainy/cold
plugged cat-runs bad,no power,back fires,poor mileage,
vaccuum leak-same as cat-do a vaccuum check,should have around 18"s and steady
corroided wires at computer/bad connections at sensors,fuel pump,etc
egr,O2,crank sensor[92-up],intake plenium[92-up],
speed sensor at trans[stalling when you put in gear and coming to stop usally]
and the list goes on,so you see its not easy
start with the easy things first,tune-up,vaccuum check,look to see if you see any thing out of place[hoses off,broke,burnt,cracked]
last but not only try opening the hood with it running after dark to see if you can see any fire jumping any where.
i know this may not help much but theres so many things it could be.
good luck and best wishes
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Eva
Dodge Dakota
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1/15/2004
15:13:16
| RE: 92 V6 stall and back fire
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Thanks for the info Vern, but I have checked and replaced almost everything you've listed except the EGR, O2 and Intake plenium. I thought in doing so I might have had a general direction to follow, but I don't. If you have advice as to where to try after having checked all those that would be great... Maybe my next step after checking the EGR, O2 and Intake is a mechanic?? I just seem to be running out of options.
Do any of you know a good way to test the fuel pump (I don't really want to replace it) without regard to fuel pressure? My fuel pressure is fine...
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J and J Auto
GenII
1/15/2004
16:17:53
| RE: 92 V6 stall and back fire
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I will be back later tonight and read throw this
and see if I can help
Have to run right now
Larry
J&J Auto
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vern
Dodge Dakota
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1/15/2004
18:43:14
| RE: 92 V6 stall and back fire
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EVA,if you could borrow or maybe buy a vaccuum gauge[about $15-20] you could check your vaccuum this can tell you alot about your motor,if you have a leak,burnt or sticky valves,general cond of the motor.
it should have about 18"s of vaccuum at idle and a steady needle,a slight variation is OK
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Eva
Dodge Dakota
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1/15/2004
18:49:20
| RE: 92 V6 stall and back fire
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By the way, I have a new symptom... two maybe three time (all recent- within the last week) It won't start but will turn over. Then it grinds... very similar to the sound of trying to start a car that's already started... but it hasn't, but slightly harsher, like it got stuck or something, I hope that's a decent enough explaination. Not sure if that kills it or my reflex of argh !! kicks in and I just let off it... either way, that's new.. maybe helpful, any ideas I am certainly open to.
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J and J Auto
GenII
1/15/2004
19:00:41
| RE: 92 V6 stall and back fire
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Yes check the coil and look at the coil wire very
close one of the ends may be arcing.
You can check for vacume leaks with a can of
starting fluid spray along the intake head surface
Just take a regular sray bottle with water and
spray the wires while its running, around coil
and cap and see if the arc accros to each other
when wet
Also if you can get a presure guage check the
fuel presure
Throttle body injection 13 to 15 pounds
Multiport 40 to 50 pounds
There is what they call a sock in the tank on the
pickup tube that may be pluged and after the truck
sits a while it will run fine than after running
a while will starve for fuel this leanout could
also cause backfire from being hot than all of
a suden getting fuel it will pop back while both
valves are open on the overlap
Larry
J&J Auto
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