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V6 Dakotas
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J and J Auto
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11/17/2003
12:17:25

Subject: IntenseDak39
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Just wanted to ask what cam and pistons you have
in your 400,

Did you know they make a programible fuel
injection system for the B RB motors with the
manifold it runs $1100

I have put togather many B 400's with the mag
268 284 cam and even with the stock pistons they
dynoed at 325 HP if you add some 10 to 1's they
pull 340 hp with the mopar alm manifold and the
625 carter.

Basicly hemi power in your Dak that truck should
be in the 12's easy

I just wonder if a guy could pull a little more
with a tunable fuel injection system

LOL I seen a guy on here said he don't know how
you are going to handle the torque in your Dak
that the 400 puts out LOL

Larry
J&J Auto

IntenseDak39
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11/17/2003
13:48:41

RE: IntenseDak39
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With this motor i am just running stock pistons, rods, and crank. I know it has a very low 8.2:1 compression but this is kinda just a starter motor... you know, one that i can use to get everything together in the truck. I have a cam in there right now but i am gonna remove it and put in something a little more milder like the Edelbrock Performer RPM cams or a Comp Cam with 284/284 duration and .484 lift. I dont remember the exact specs but i have them written down somewhere. I too have been told by more than one person that i can probably put a bone stock BB and expect 12s in a dakota... but who really knows.

There's a couple guys that have been talking to me and giving advice and i have been listening to them but they think that i am ignoring them (Fazdak, Graphite) but the thing is i am not really going for as much power as possible with this. I want to... but i dont need to, if you know what i mean.

Right now here are the parts on the motor (even though some will be replaced)

452 heads
Comp Cams 911-16 valve springs
Crower .513/.513 284/300 duration cam
edelbrock performer 383 intake
edelbrock performer rpm 750 carb
CAT 1.5 full roller rockers
Comp Cams chromoly pushrods
k&n 14x3 filter
msd 8.5 wires

future mods:

headers (gonna build them myself)
Edelbrock or Comp Camshaft


Like i have said... i have talked to several people that know their sheet but i either cant afford it or choose not to do it because i dont want as much power as possible. One guy was telling me how to add one whole point of compression but i told him that i dont need a 500 hp 3400 lb truck... gonna get squirly

and yes Scott! i do believe you that holley's are better than edie's but i dont want to worry about getting them to work right!!!!


right nut now...



J and J Auto
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11/17/2003
22:33:56

RE: IntenseDak39
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The 268 / 284 is the factory mag cam for the old
383 440,

I ran a 284 284 .484 in my 69 road runner and
still had a good idle, crane fireball they really
come to life above 3000 rpm right upto 6000 than
start to drop off but in your Dak I see no reason
to be reving the motor over 5500 with the nodular
iron crank.

Also the 4bl version of the 400 did have a fordged
crank in some years I have the #s for the
differant cranks around somewhere

With that cam you should be right around 300
ponies

The cam you have in there is a little on the hot
side and with that lift will have a rough idle
that cam will run 6500 7000 rpm, I think your
right I would go a little milder

The 268 284 or the 284 284 with a .484 lift
would be just right, even with the low comp
it will run very strong and maintain a good
idle

Are you going to run a 727 or a 4 speed either
way your going to have a blast with it. There is
a local with a 94 Dak 1969 383 mag 4 speed that
truck is insane everythig stock 383 except the
stainless valves and hardend seat to run unleaded

Its one of the few trucks around I will not go up
against, I would not even come close hes running
like 12.2 with a 3.55 suregrip all day long and
has a time slip for 11.9 at I think it was 124
FAST

Larry
J&J Auto

IntenseDak39
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11/18/2003
06:17:47

RE: IntenseDak39
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wow... 11's!

yeah i am gonna use a 727 and replace the valve body in it. I have been told that my motor is a stock 4bbl 400 but i am not sure... i do know that it is a 1976 model.

I think that i am gonna save the Crower Cam for when i either just rebuild this motor or stroke it. Let me see if i can find the specs on the cam i would like....



IntenseDak39
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11/18/2003
07:55:20

RE: IntenseDak39
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these are two of the cams i am looking at now:

Comp Cams: 21-224-4

Specifications:
* Advertised duration: 274 intake/286 exhaust
* Duration at .050 in. cam lift: 230 intake/236 exhaust
* Gross valve lift: .488 in. intake/.491 in. exhaust
* Lobe separation: 110 degrees
* RPM range: 1,800-6,000

or the

Comp Cams 21-306-4

270/270 duration
224/224 duration @ .050
.470/.470 lift @.050
110 LS
range 1000-5500



akaproph
Dodge Dakota
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11/18/2003
08:42:47

RE: IntenseDak39
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Hey Greg when is that motor going in there? lol Just messing with ya. I wish the weather would make up its mind so I could go out there.



vern
Dodge Dakota
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11/18/2003
09:18:19

RE: IntenseDak39
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Larry, i,m have a time to believe that a 383 stock,3500lb truck,4spd runs 11.9s[stock]

i,ve owned road runners and super bees 383s and 440s/autos and 4spds 13s on street tires /12s on slicks on some tricks not 11s what gives here?

Vern



FazDak
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11/18/2003
15:57:56

RE: IntenseDak39
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Larry I have to ask.....how in the world can that guy hook enough with a P/U to get 11's? I'm guessing he has some serious meats and a full chassis rear.
I couldnt get those kinda times because of no traction in my 73 Cuda that had quite a bit hotter 383 Mag from a RR. I had a Torker intake, 509 Purple shaft, 1.5 Ductile adjustables, 906's ported and 11.1 forged pistons. 4spd A833 with a dual face ceramic plate and 8 3/4 with 4.30's. I did only run a street size 50 series but it was an Indy soft compound ( I know, there way old school but its all we had back then).
I never broke the 11's with that combo, probably would have if I had more weight in the rear and a link setup.

As Greg will tell you, we have no traction with our V6 and mods, imaging twice the TQ commin on a grand or better lower in the RPM range!!

Cant wait to see your 12/11 second Dak though, Greg. ;-D>



J and J Auto
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11/18/2003
16:41:15

RE: IntenseDak39
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I just went and seen dwane this morning, It was a
time slip he showed me but never told me the rest.

I took a look at the truck this morn, he has
changed a few things.

Fuel cell is mounted in the box right over the
rear wheels the fiberglass cover hides it, He
has a dana 60 3.94 gears with a set of full
length ladder bars slicks and he also changed
out the manifold to mopar 6 pack set up he
also has a set of headers he made 1 7/8
tubes with a 3 1/2 collector 16" long into 2
street hemi muffs and tail pipes, he said that
is why he had to get rid of the gas tank it was
in the way.

He said that was the best of 3 runs and everything
clicked but has never be able to do it again it
runs low 12's consistently but has never drooped
down in the 11's again it was 11.98 at 123

IntenseDak39

The 270 270 cam would give you a little better
mid range over the 274/ 286 would probably
be the better choice of the 2 for your truck.
more torque 3000 to 5000 rpm droping off
at 5500 with a 3.91 gear about 135 mph

If that is a 76 4bl 400 there is a very good chance
it has a forged crank

We did a 70 charger about 1 1/2 years ago the
guy is running a 298/308 cam 440 dual quads
but once you hit 3 3500 man hang on she revs
727 manual valve body 2200 stall 4.11 gears
idle what idle there is none under 1800 rpm

Larry
J&J Auto

FazDak
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11/18/2003
20:00:09

RE: IntenseDak39
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I figured he had some kinda stuff to try and get some weight on the back wheels.
I would still put money on his engine turning quite a bit better times in a B body.
I've never seen a forged crank in anything Mopar after 73 and that was truck engines.
If its a 76 4bbl it's most likely an Interceptor.



J and J Auto
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11/18/2003
21:29:03

RE: IntenseDak39
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Oh ya

Federal 360 4bl also had forged cranks I know
for a fact, Police cars but they used mostly
nodular iron after 1972

Larry
J&J Auto

IntenseDak39
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11/19/2003
08:52:48

RE: IntenseDak39
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Thanx for the support Scott!!!

Larry,

i think that would be a good choice too.



cory
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11/19/2003
17:00:27

RE: IntenseDak39
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Larry,
I have a question about numbers for ya. I am starting to put together a 360 for my 94. I am going to run a 727, anyways back to the engine. I am going to run 10:1 keith blacks, and an edelbrock performer rpm manifold and as far as a carb I am thinking a 750 but havent decided between edelbrock or holley (recomendations welcome I have had good luck with both) and the cam shaft I plan to run is a 218/228/ with .441 lift. what do you think I will be looking at for numbers and any suggestions on where to improve also I am converting to electronic distributor. (this isnt a magnum 360) thanks for any help and or advice



vern
Dodge Dakota
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11/19/2003
19:19:00

RE: IntenseDak39
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cory,i,m not larry

but the cam your using does,nt sound like it matches your intake-the intake is for 1500-
6500 rpm power.

the cam maybe idle-4500,you,ll need a cam in the 480-510 lift range and a 225-245 dur @50 to match your intake.

don,t go over the 10 to 1 comp you,ll start having problems on pump fuel.also with a longer dur cam you,ll bleed some comp off.

do some head work,open up the pockets around the valves and a good set of springs and retainers.

the elderbrock carb is my choice just because its simple to work on[jet and metering]and it will do what the holley does for less $$$ on the
street.

go with a 2500-3000 stall convertor and 3.91 rear.

you,ll have a great little streeter.375-400hp+

around 300hp now.

good luck
Vern



FazDak
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11/19/2003
20:52:34

RE: IntenseDak39
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Not Larry either but I have a few thoughts.

That cam is very very mild, if its a hyd flat then its a decent low end pulling profile but if its all roller you wasted your money.

Correct me if I'm wrong but it sounds like you want a very streetable strong runner. If so and your gonna use a hyd flat tappet go with something in the 474 lift range with no more than 270 duration. If you use that cam or close I highly reccomend the Edelbrock Performer Air gap.

You didnt mention heads so I will tell you not to expect verns #'s with any less then J's opend up with 2.02's and decent bowl porting or X's and of course Edelbrock, W2 or Indy's will get you those numbers ok but with a much hotter cam.
Carfull getting "10.1" pistons, they are usually measured with a high CC stock head. If you go with a closed chamber like Edel's or Indy's you will kik the compression up a point and possibly 1.5.
As for carb, streetable dummy proof less HP Edel is your carb. Most for your money, tunable to a T and the best HP go with Demon, Holley a close 2nd to demon.

Good luck adapting your accessories and with your speedo. You will also need to return line your fuel system with a pressure regulator or remove your injection fuel pump and go with a a standard mechanical.





IntenseDak39
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11/19/2003
21:15:03

RE: IntenseDak39
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woo hoo!! someone else that has an Edie!!!!


i think after i get my motor figured out... i'll get a Demon



FazDak
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11/20/2003
09:32:30

RE: IntenseDak39
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Starting to see the light Grasshopper. :-D>



IntenseDak39
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11/20/2003
11:19:26

RE: IntenseDak39
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nah, i think that i am just gonna take a picture of one, send it to you and say "i bought this" to make you feel better :-D



J and J Auto
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11/20/2003
14:07:06

RE: IntenseDak39
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The eldabrock carb is just like an old carter,
weber,carter and eldibrock are the same company

Yes both good carbs, you may have to rejet either
one depending how it runs but the stock jetting
will be close usualy on a 750 you end up dropping
down the jet size a little on a 318 or 360

You can run the fuel system that is in place but
you need to replace the fuel pump in the tank with
one that only puts out 7 to 8 pounds to run the
carb the stock presure would blow right by the
needle.

I also agree that cam is flat for the intake, its
more of a low end power cam try the 284 284
perple cam from mopar good for an easy 6000 rpm

You should run a higher stall converter it will
be a little doggie down low. 1800 2200 would
solve that prob.

The stock springs will float around 5800

Hey I thought this was a Dak board I guess a lot
of us are just old die hard mopar guys

Larry
J&J Auto

J and J Auto
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11/20/2003
14:16:03

RE: IntenseDak39
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Oh ya on the exhaust if you lenghthen the
collector on the headers to 18" you can bring
in a little more mid range.

The headers usualy come with 6" collector length
just get 2 pieces 12" long and weld the extention
in, cut the flange off weld it to the pipe and
than weld that back on the header so you still
have your 3 bolt flange.

And don't forget to put the flange on the pipe
like I have done many times. OPPs

Larry
J&J Auto

IntenseDak39
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11/20/2003
14:16:12

RE: IntenseDak39
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"Hey I thought this was a Dak board I guess a lot
of us are just old die hard mopar guys"


i am not... well i am a die hard mopar guy... just not old :-D


my unlengthy life has limited me to only two mopars and one mitsubeetchi powered chrysler


:::sigh:::



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