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17:57:34 - 05/01/2024
V6 Dakotas
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UFDakota
Dodge Dakota
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3/01/2003
03:48:56
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 Subject: ?Ignition: (plugs, wires, cap & rotor)?
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Hey everybody, I've looked around on here, but need some more answers.
Plugs: i know some people like the autolite 3293 (3923?) some like bosch+4, etc. But, lemme see if i got this right: platinum perform better, but copper last longer... is this right? plus, which would be better for what i have: V6, cool-air intake, 160 stat, jet chip, exhaust. does that effect anything? Also, the gap: i've heard .35 or .40, should i just go with what the sticker says?
Wires: where's a good place to buy them? I'm guessing Magnecor, JBA, or I saw Bosch at autozone. any good deals?
Cap & rotor: again, where to buy some good brass contact ones. I see alot of guys use borg-warner; where r they sold? anyone use the ones from autozone? (they're the only store i like around here).
(BTW: my truck was feelin alittle sluggish, i need a tune up, but i put in Z-Max, and it REALLY feels better!)
Any help's really aprreciated. Thanks alot!
-Dan
http://www.streetsourcemag.com/Profile.aspx?profileid=16538
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slopehead
Dodge Dakota
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3/01/2003
08:17:42
|  RE: ?Ignition: (plugs, wires, cap & rotor)?
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you need at least a 170 or even a 180 thermostate or that engine will always run in open loop and may even set off your mil lite (check engine). If it does and you have an auto tranny the thing might stay in second gear or "limp home mode" needles to say your milage will go down as it will run richer and too rich will also degrade performance.
NAPA has the cap and rotor you want as standard repacement, the guys at autozone near me said I was nuts, nobody makes a brass cap/rotor for dodge I bet the clown 20 bucks, 20 minutes later he refused to pay up.
JBA? I thought that was a header mfg.
you want a long lasting plug? go with champion's truck plugs. my neihbor has them in his (brand deleted) and has 50,000 mi. on themlast fall he looked at them with 45,000 on them, cleaned them with a wire brush, the center wire was still trimmed square so he put them back in, still runnin good.
those platinum plugs are only plated wires, because platinum is a precious metal, if the wire in the plug was solid platinum you would pay around $60 per plug.
just someone whose parent worked at champion's engineering office till cooper bought them and moved them out of Toledo. I still work for them as a supplier for tooling for their mfg. machines.
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Daddy-D
*GenIII*
3/01/2003
09:49:29
| RE: ?Ignition: (plugs, wires, cap & rotor)?
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Message:
Any cooler than 180, your Dak's performance may suffer - stick with a 180 t-stat.
NAPA is an excellent source for cap/rotor.
I got my Taylor wires from http://www.summitracing.com.
I'm happy with Bosch Platinum +4 plugs; in spite of what I have heard here, I have had no problems with them in all my cars (points & electronic ignition) and plan to keep using them.
You will realize significant performance improvement if you step up to a F&B (Flometrics) billet throttle body.
As for that Z stuff, I'm skeptical - stick with synthetic fluids.
'98 DakSport C/C 3.9 2WD A/T
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UFDakota
Dodge Dakota
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3/01/2003
14:37:50
| RE: ?Ignition: (plugs, wires, cap & rotor)?
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Thanks guys, i knew i'd be hearin about the 160 thermostat. when i got it i just thought "the cooler the better" but i've been planning on putting in a 170 or 180 ever since the MIL light came on :). but performance hasn't suffered.
I'm headed to Napa today, but i'm not lookin forward to changing the cap and rotor. i'll look at the taylor wires too. thanx again.
Anyone else?
-Dan
http://www.streetsourcemag.com/Profile.aspx?profileid=16538
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UFDakota
Dodge Dakota
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3/01/2003
15:02:52
| RE: ?Ignition: (plugs, wires, cap & rotor)?
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Daddy-D,
Do u have a part # for those taylor wires? did u just use the V8 wires, cuz i couldn't find any V6 on Summit. do they fit good? if they don't, i'd like some made for 3.9L. Thanx
-Dan
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Joe E.
Dodge Dakota
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3/01/2003
21:23:28
| RE: ?Ignition: (plugs, wires, cap & rotor)?
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Hey man, im in Gville too. I have been to Pep boys on Newberry, the Discount on Tower, and have had a hard time finding wires and cap rotor. Finally broke down and bought the Accel 8.8mm 300+ spark plug wires set. Gonna cut the tomarrow. Nice set. Donno where to get the stuff but it aint easy. Later
Joe E.
Maybe see ya around sometime. Whats your dak look like???
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UFDakota
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/01/2003
22:37:58
| RE: ?Ignition: (plugs, wires, cap & rotor)?
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what's up Joe. I JUST got my cap and rotor from NAPA on NE 23rd Ave. (just east of Main St.) It's NAPA brand, but it's supposedly premium; they've got brass contacts. I think I'm gonna just change cap and rotor and plugs, and leave the stock wires. They're skinny, but $70 is kinda expensive.
My truck is a dark green 2000 ext. cab. Fully Shaved, dropped on 18s, loud exhaust, prolly me out the window smoking a cigarette.
Take a look at a bunch of pics of my truck:
http://www.streetsourcemag.com/Profile.aspx?profileid=16538
I work tomorrow (sunday) late at night at jimmy johns on Archer. See ya round.
-Dan
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C P
Dodge Dakota
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3/01/2003
23:17:33
| RE: ?Ignition: (plugs, wires, cap & rotor)?
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There is a point of diminishing returns. Colder is better to a point then the truck never warms up enough to enter closed loop. This state is for a warm up period and without alot of details means the O2 sensor info is not used to tune the fuel/air mix. The forum seems to suggest the closed loop temp is triggered at about 180. I use the 180 t-stat and I do enter close-loop state. Your results may vary.
Carquest replacement cap and rotor is inexpensive and has brass contacts that are reccomended for long life and performance.
I only used Champ plugs gapped at 0.035 for years and never had a problem. I bought autolite3923's and gapped them at .035, at .037, and at .04 and cannot absolutly say there is a diff. at the wheels. I suspect that the combustion in the cyl is alot better (efficient) at the widest gap. The point is, whatever plug you use has to be maintained and gapped properly. spend $2 a plug each year or $5 a plug every other year and other than saving a buck or two what is the difference? Cheep Champs are in my worthless opinion the way to go. All they do is emit an arc in a gasoline aerosol. All the other complicated events to deliver the voltage to the plug happened milliseconds before the spark was born unto the cylinder chamber by other components. The ignition wires, cap, rotor, coil, distributor, and the rest of the ignition electronics should get your full attention when looking for parts to upgrade. Champions should be changed every 15K and I tend to do it whether they look good or not yearly. It is cheep and ensures efficient gas-ignition.
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