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V6 Dakotas
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JET
Dodge Dakota
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11/13/2011
18:08:34
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 Subject: Heater Core Replacement Best Antifreeze
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Message:
I have to change the heater core in my 1998 V6 Dakota, but I have a couple of items on which I’d like feedback. But first a summary.
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Way back when antifreeze was simple, all contained silicates, phosphates, and borates. The silicates were good for aluminum parts and the phosphates and borates were great for the lead in the solder joints, this protection was heavily due to the formation of a coating on the parts. These corrosion inhibitors were fast acting but didn’t last long (typically two to three years). We drivers were lazy or confused or naive about changing our coolant, so the manufactures decided to change the process, improve the longevity of the coolant.
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Because of their hard water, the Europeans automotive manufacturers wanted coolant with no silicates and no phosphates because these would react with the calcium and magnesium and settle out of solution and cause scaling. In contrast, Asian automotive manufacturers preferred phosphates. And everyone seemed to pick their own color. GM’s DexCool was arguably viewed as causing more harm than good, most likely due to confusion over appropriate use.
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Fast forward to today and we have a handful of different types of antifreeze available, most of which are extended life. These new extended life antifreezes are ethylene glycol based and are typically low on or free of silicates and phosphates. Most of them can be used in any non-diesel application because the corrosion inhibitors are slower reacting and rely on pH rather than coating for preservation. Dodge make the switch in 2001.
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The heater core in my 1998 V6 Dakota is plugged and has a tiny leak. The symptoms are (1) the inlet hose (passenger side) is hot at Normal Operating Temperature but the outlet hose (driver’s side) is cool; (2) the windows instantly fog up at any heater setting but just barely manageable on defrost; (3) slight smell of antifreeze inside with any heater setting. Fortunately, no coolant is puddling inside and no noticeable change in the radiator level. All of the hoses (heater and radiator) are spongy but not leaking (will be changing them). Bottomline, I need to change the heater core. Incidentally, I change the thermostat 3 years ago when chasing the CEL/emissions testing rabbit. The current coolant is 4 years old.
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My plan is to change the heater core next weekend. Until this exercise I didn’t realize the complexity of today’s coolant technology. I’ve done extensive reading on antifreeze & coolant additives & Dakota/Durango/Ram heater core replacement, but I still have a few questions.
(1) Are the OEM radiator and heater core in the Dakota copper/brass or aluminum?
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(2) The replacement heater cores are aluminum, with the slower acting corrosion inhibitors in the extended life antifreeze formulations what sort of degradation should I expect with the new heater core?
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(3) The general consensus is to flush the coolant system, if I do flush the system will the protective coating on the components be removed?
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(4) Since the new antifreeze formulations don’t use silicates/phosphates/borates, should I use a third party additive? Do they really work?
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(5) Here’s my plan, unless you convince me otherwise: drain current coolant, flush with additive, flush with water, replace heater core, fill with Prestone 50/50 extended life antifreeze.
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(6) I’m thinking of replacing the working radiator cap because the rubber seal feels rigid, do the aftermarket caps last?
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Thanx…JET
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FoFo
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
11/14/2011
17:12:57
| RE: Heater Core Replacement Best Antifreeze
IP: Logged
Message:
Use the coolant that does not hurt animals.
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