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01DakSport
Dodge Dakota
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7/09/2009
15:09:38

Subject: Larry 3.9 potential
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what kind of realistic hp/tq numbers can really be achieved with a v6 money wise compared to swapping in an 8. also, what kind of numbers would they be naturally aspirated? if you can help me out that would be great. thanks!



?
Dodge Dakota
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7/16/2009
09:28:56

RE: Larry 3.9 potential
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RE: 3.9 V6 mods
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Ther are many things you can do

A 46mm fastman or 48mm F&B throttle body will
add 15 to 18hp and 20 25 torque at the wheels
around $250

A cold air intake system around 5hp

The harland sharp 1.7 roller rockers will just
about the same amount around $300

These rocker arms are a bolt in mod no adjusting
needed the valve cover gaskets are alm & silicon
and can be reused very good gaskets there

You also can move the crank sensor and gain 3 to 4
degrees of timing this will add around 5 to 10 hp
just remove remove rubber gromit slot the holes
and move down toward the oil filter right side
pass behind head hard to get to on the G3's

Another option after you improve the intake side
is a superchips tunner using the towing program
this will also raise and firm up your trans
shifting

A low restriction catback will add 5 to 10hp
headers another 10hp

Always improve the intake side first lowering the
back pressure without doing the intake you will
lose low end torque

All sythetic fluids will also help

All these mods not only increase power but also
help gas mileage

I just got 22.4 50 degrees out side raining out
half the trip freeway at 70mph in my 95 4x4

there is 30 hp gain and 40 torque at the wheels
this figuring the least gain

better spark plugs and wires will help napa
mo26 mo28 solid brass incerts and tylor or msd
wires will increase the volts at the plugs

go 1 colder
NGK Vpower $2.40ea FR5
E3 $6.00ea thing 3.64
halo $9each br15

the e3 and halo's are perm gap
the ngk gap at .040 on your obd2

The ngk you will notice instantly more power
smother and better mileage the e3 or halo's
even more

once all this is done than an MSD 6a multi
strike will ad anothe 10hp

with my stock cam I was dynoing aroud 198 RWHP
with my new cam 206

a stock truck is around 120 140rear wheel 200
torque
very easy boltons can get you upto 175 and 250
270 torque a very big improvement over stock

my 4x4 got 17 18mpg stock when its like 70 and
above temps I pull 24 25mpg

start with the
cold air intake
throttle body
1.7 rockers
give it 200 miles to learn this alone may be
enough

The baro sensor in the map sensor only reads when
key is turned on if you change elivation a lot
just pull over shut off and restart this will
solve the elivation prob the higher you get
the less atmispheric pressur and it will lose
power

almost forgot the bosch FMS fuel injectors with
the 4 hole spray over the factory 1 hole wonders
are matched closer holds a tighter air/fuel
ratio better atomization and over all smother
running motor very noticeable mid and top end
power gains more low end torque

Have fun

Larry
J&J Auto



J and J Auto
GenII
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7/24/2009
03:14:34

RE: Larry 3.9 potential
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Working with the stock cam you can pull 175 rear
with all the mods and bolton's

With a cam swap just over 200hp rear wheel

behond that I have 2 stroked motors
stock 3.31 stroke
1st stroker motor 3.58 same as 360
2nd stroker motor 4.0 stroke
267/300
309/322

Now the stroker cranks are no longer made that I
know of but you can also go with forced induction
or nitrious with the stock cam around 250 can be had

with a hotter cam and forced induction just over
300 rear wheel is posible

The local off road racing team has a stright line
mud drag truck running on nitro and a blower
pulling 450hp

if you plan on going with forced induction and
reaching 300hp I strongly recomend getting the
crank machined and running the heavy 318 rods
for a little added security

right now my 95 4x4 with a 200/210 cam stock lift
112 center will pull 210 215 rear wheel hp and
gets 24 24.5mpg very torqy little motor

Also for the higher numbers you should have a good
dyno tune setting up the A/F ratio and the timing
makes a big diff on a bone stock motor there is
18 hp to be had with computer tunning this will
be more the more the motor is moddedup to around
25hp

My 3.58 stroke motor is just sitting in my garage
right now the 4" stroke motor is in a 94 2 wheel
and will run a 1/4 at 13.3 all day long
these motors were costly comming in at $6,000 and
8,000 bukarews

For most getting the rear wheel which is rather
easy to obtain is all a guy needs stock cam 1.7
rocker ratio and just cleaning up the lumps bumps
and casting leavings and a good polish on the
heads ports must be done to get there at 175hp
all the mods and bolton's and a good computer
tune and you will be there

Taking it farther is for guys like me who are just
plan crazy about performance

just taking it to 175 rear wheel its like the dif
between night and day and the gas mileage on a
motor like this 23 to 25 mpg is also there

my last 2 mileage checks 25% back roads 75 high
way with a little hot rodding was 24.4 and 24mpg
in a 4x4 3.55 gears its just a fun little truck
and it will be 15 this dec I bought it new in dec
1994 and I plan on keeping it for ever the 94
with the 4" stroke motor I only drive once and a
while the 4x4 is my daily driver but I also have
35 other cars in my collection that I drive 250
miles on all every summer but my dak 4x4 is always
on the go 128,000 on it

The V6 motor is a tough little bugger I have seen
a few with 500,000 miles and still running well
but as I said if you plan on pushing it into the
300 hp area do the crank work and use the 318 rods
once the crank is machined to take these rods you
can also go to a H or I beam after mrket rod and
be even stronger, I am running the after market
rods in both my stoked motors and they turn 6,000
rpm with no worries

A stock crank will turn 6,000 rpm but I would not
do it on a reg basis they will fail 5500 rpm they
will handle ok

Larry
J&J Auto

01DakSport
Dodge Dakota
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7/25/2009
15:37:06

RE: Larry 3.9 potential
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thanks for al the info, very informative.in your experience, what muffler will give the deepest tone? i had a magnaflow cat and a glasspack but it sounded like a honda, so now i took off the 2 prewarmer cats (2001 2nd gen) and left the magnaflow on and dumped right there, and it sounds like an 8 til about 3500 but its way too loud. so i was thinking about putting a muffler after the cat and keeping the dump before the axle or even running dual side pipesbefore the axle, in hopes it will quiet it down some but still retain the badass exhaust tone. any suggestions?



J and J Auto
GenII
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7/29/2009
05:35:36

RE: Larry 3.9 potential
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A dynomax 17748 or a flowmaster 50 and a stock
2.5 tail will give you a nice tone quite when
crusing and raps when you get on it with a deep
tone at idle and low rpm

2.5" in and out off set in center out

This setup also produses the most torqe at low rpm

Another one I found to work well is the pacesetter
preditor dual system but its a little loud in
stock form what I did was make 2 10" long
baffles 2 1/4 O/D flare the ends and drill a
series of 5 holes in 4 rows along the baffle
rap it with fiberglass and incert them into the
3 1/2 stanless tips I secured them with 3 nuts
welded to the baffle and 3 allen head screws


In its stock form besides being loud the back
pressure was to low this will solve both problems
with this system than it shows about the same
on the dyno as the 2 muffs mentiond with the
single tail setup

These are the best 3 I have found for the V6

I have tried the 2 3/4 dynomax system and its
garbage very loud and low end torque loss because
of the low back pressure with the bigger systems
unless your running forced induction or nitrious
you need the back pressure

the dynomax or series 50 with a single 2.5 tail
is perfict for the V6 just bolt it on and your
all set

The prediter dual system needs the baffles than it
works well but if you cant make the baffles go
with the 2.5 tail setup you will be very pleased
with it and you will notice the increased low end
torque and it will pull strong right to redline

Most people do not understand that an exhaust
sytem must do more than just flow well they need
to pulse not just flow well this creats a
scavaging effect that helps pull the exhaust out

I see so many people put huge systems on thinking
it will help but in reality it hurts them robbing
performance bigger is not always better unless
like I said your running forced induction or
nitrious and running wide open all the time than
you want more flow but you will sacrifice low
and mid range power

Larry
J&J Auto

mark-402001
Dodge Dakota
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8/07/2009
15:17:33

RE: Larry 3.9 potential
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Hey I was just reading this post and was wondering where to get the harland sharp 1.7 rockers and a stock cam. I am doing a complete rebuild on a 3.9 and want to achieve a little better performance. I have a 95 3.9. So far I have gotten the larger throttle body and the older exhaust manifolds. Who carries the 1.7 rockers? My cam shaft is showing some wear and pitting on the back side of the lobes. Does anyone know where to get a stock cam? Orielly's wants 157.99 for just a stock cam. I went to hughes engines and found the lifters. They had the best price on them. While in the tear down stage I will be polishing the intake ports of the heads as well as cleaning up the intake. Any advice or pics would be great. thanks



bullal
Dodge Dakota
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8/07/2009
22:42:26

RE: Larry 3.9 potential
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all of these mods are bs buy a car with real hp



well
Dodge Dakota
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8/07/2009
23:32:11

RE: Larry 3.9 potential
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Hi mark-402001
You can get the roller rockers at Jegs or summit.
Cams can be found at Hughes engines
(copy an paste the link below)

http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/products.php?browse=category&level0=U21hbGwgQmxvY2sgTWFnbnVtICgzLjkvNS4yLzUuOSk=&level1=Q2Ftc2hhZnQ=




yogi bear
Dodge Dakota
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8/30/2009
00:54:24

RE: Larry 3.9 potential
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Message:
hey what would get me the best low end



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