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16:51:55 - 04/26/2024
V6 Dakotas
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J and J Auto
GenII
 
7/25/2008
01:40:20
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 Subject: 3962 Posts
IP: Logged
Message:
I just clicked on the little pic of my truck
I have posted 3962 and been on this board for 5
years now since 2003
Gee wiss I had no idea
Give you a little update on the cam
196/205 with 1.7 harlands
with the 1.7 ratio it would be more like
200/210 @ .050 .460 lift 112 center
stock has a 114/110 center
After 1,500 miles I was getting 22.5 mpg so I
decided to take a look at the injector sync to see
how much enitial streach I would get with the
cloyes oversized true street roller timing chain
The rollers and sprokets I would say should be all
seated now
I had the sync at +3 when I checked it was like
+1 and it did seam to be a little flat
This cam opens aprox 5 degrees sooner than stock
so I decided to set it at +5 and did it ever make
a big differance
My mileage jumped right upto 24 25mpg and she
lights up real nice at 2000rpm you could really
notice the lope at idle it is even more pronoced
now and at 2000rpm does she ever rap under
excelleration picked up some nice low end torque
I will look up the number for fedral mogal and
next time I post I will get it up here so anyone'interested in this cam can call and see if
they made more they said they were going to but
did not know when
It comes as a cam and lifter kit and is comprable
to the Hughes engines towing cam without having
to do a valve spring change
More power off idle to redline and the fuel
economy is still there
Its the hottest cam I have found without having to
change springs, changing the springs is not cheap
just for the cam and springs your looking at
$800 to $1000 just for the parts
Using this cam and lifter kit with the gaskets
is under $400
CS-1502 cam
They have what they call 2 diff cams
the gray dot is stock replacement
The red dot which this is, is a performance
replacement
Or call summit racing 1-800-230-3030 press the
button from the menue for customer sevice and
ask them for the fedral mogal number its toll free
and see if they made more
You can not buy direct from fed mog you would
have to than go tru summit to purchase the kit
Well worth the money if your looking for more
performance or more power for towing
If I remenber corectly I dynoed at 210 or 215
with about 700 miles on it feels like I picked up
another 15 easy guess I will have to visit my
buddy Jack and run another dyno sometime
I thought my gains were a little low for the cam
it was the injector sync I was running like 198
rear wheel with the stock cam and was figuring
around a 25 hp gain but it was not there well its
there now
I should have thought about that sooner Marty
at KRC recomends a +6 +8 for the hotter cams
I am running all the bolton's all the mods
gasket match intake stock runner length MSD a
Jet stage 2 chip and the head ports are polished
125,000 miles on the motor also all sythetics
95 4x4
I think I will hit the 225 230 I had figured now
thats more than a stock 318 rear wheel
Well Its time for me to find my pillows and have
some sweet dreams
Everyone have a good day night or whatever this
old man is going to sleep
Larry
J&J Auto
|
Fed
GenII
8/19/2008
04:04:41
|  RE: 3962 Posts
IP: Logged
Message:
HEY LARRY!! long time no talk! i see that you have been posting up a storm on these forums!
hey i was just wondering about that injector syncronization. how do you do that? im no professional like you so if you can, please explain in simple terms?? thank you so much!
the reason i ask is becuase im not getting the performance/mileage i believe that i should be out of my rebuilt 3.9. i have well over 15,000 miles on the built motor with the hughes cam 208/214. part #0418
PS: would you say the local performance shop would know how to do this?
1996 Dakota CC 3.9 manual
(rebuilt motor at 9.5:1 compression, Hughes 208 V6 cam, milled heads, 1.6 Hughes RRs, ported intake manifold, Tom Fox PCM flash, FMS 24# injectors, K&N FIPK, F&B 48mm tb, MSD coil & wires, underdrive pulleys, JBA ceramic headers, custom y-pipe to 2.5
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J and J Auto
GenII
8/20/2008
01:17:53
| RE: 3962 Posts
IP: Logged
Message:
Some shops would know some would not
I will explain how to do it
Always turn the crank clockwise never go bacwards
if you pass up the mark you will just have to
keep going in the same direction
1 1/4 or 32mm socket
Put vibration damper on 0 TDC the rotor will be
aiming towards the pass side of truck right near
the #1 plug wire
On the G2 trucks like ours it eaiser to see than
the G3 were the engine is moved back and under
they are a pain and you need to use a mirrior
So 0 TDC
from the front of the truck looking back
look straight down over the rotor with a good
light.
always just push the rotor with light finger
pressurer counter clockwise this will take out
any little play in the cam gear just a light
push don't try to force it, you will see on any
vehicle that you can slightly turn the rotor
back and forth this slop needs to be out to get
it set more acurate
There is a line marked cyl on the pickup in the
dist this tells the injectors when to fire
With the rotor button centered over this line
that is 0
They come from the factory anywhere from -3 to 0
the techs are told not to set past 0 but they run
best with the stock cam at +3
With your cam I would go +5 +6 just like I did
OK
looking from front if you turn the dist counter
clockwise this advances the sync clockwise
retards the sync
from front the back edge of rotor button with
cyl line this is +3 the back edge of rotor button
the side closesest to you of button
move this back edge aprox 1/8 past line this will
be +6
the hole button will be behind the cyl line
looking from the front
Setting them this way you will be within +- 1
The instructions that most use is to put it on
TDC than rotate the dist back and forth until you
see a 5 volt jump than tighten
This is crap and you can be off +- 5 doing it
this way
I ran mine at +3 with the stock cam the intake
opened 8 degreed befor TDC and the injector was
fireing at 6 degrees
My new cam opens 12 degrees before TDC and I have
the sync at +5 which will fire the injectors at
10 before TDC
Helps everything having this right throttle
response power and gas mileage
As soon as that valve cracks open there is a
scavaging effect going on and the exhaust flow
is actualy helping pull in some of the fuel
once the valve is open farther and the exhaust is
now closed your just relying on the piston
down travel to draw in fuel
catching this scavaging effect will more
effeciently fill the cyl's getting a bigger
charge in there besides creating more power
also will help the cyl temps stay down
When they are set at 0 or on the - side
fireing the injector late you miss the spray
when the scavaging is going on power and
response will suffer
It can make a big diff especialy with a hotter
cam opening soone and more overlap where both
valves are open at the same time
I am running a 30 degree overlap on this cam
almost same as stock but the duration is 6 degrees
more intake side and 8 on the exhaust side
The stock cam also has a 114 center on intake
side this cam 112 so right there your opening the
intake sooner and you must compensate for
that by changing the injector sync if you have a
hotter cam and set the sync stock the motor will
be very flat in performance
KRC Performance is recomending anywhere from
+6 to +10 for the hotter cams yours should work
well at +6
Larry
J&J Auto
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Fed
GenII
8/20/2008
03:50:08
|  RE: 3962 Posts
IP: Logged
Message:
okay, first of all i want to apologize for not understanding most of what you just said.
i need to clear up a few things so here is a few questions... i will try to make it as straight forward as possible.
1. what is TDC?
2. where would i be turning the crank?
3. where is the vibration damper?
4. do i need to remove anything to do this?
5. where is the rotor?
6. where is the rotor botton?
thank you Larry so much for your patience!
1996 Dakota CC 3.9 manual
(rebuilt motor at 9.5:1 compression, Hughes 208 V6 cam, milled heads, 1.6 Hughes RRs, ported intake manifold, Tom Fox PCM flash, FMS 24# injectors, K&N FIPK, F&B 48mm tb, MSD coil & wires, underdrive pulleys, JBA ceramic headers, custom y-pipe to 2.5
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hey
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/20/2008
14:28:43
| RE: 3962 Posts
IP: Logged
Message:
TDC = top dead center
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