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22:43:55 - 04/26/2024
V6 Dakotas
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Problem Child
Dodge Dakota
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4/14/2007
16:42:02
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 Subject: Manual Trans
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Message:
2002, 3.9
I'm at a bit of a little lose here, I'm sure someone has the answer. I'm looking for a new shifter, Hurst shows two; one for NV-3500 and one for AX-15, I can't find a F$%Kin thing on the trans itself to tell me which one. owners manual say's NV-3500, but no one has updates really to which one will work.
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Snuzn2
Dodge Dakota
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4/16/2007
12:46:18
|  RE: Manual Trans
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Message:
The Hurst shifter for the NV3500 will work for the '00 V6 Daks; I installed one in mine (as far as I know, the '00 V6's/V8's all had NV3500's). Anyway, I did encounter several problems. I'm not sure if they're universal, but I hope this helps...
The more serious problem was that the shift lever hit the dash *just* enough to prevent complete engagement of 1st, 3rd, & 5th. I knew there were dash-clearance issues w/'01-up Daks, so I wasn't expecting this for my '00. This was solved by laying it back another 15* or so; I won't pretend to be able to give instructions here. I can't weld worth anything, so I took it to a custom shop. They basically cut a wedge out of the shifter 1/2" above the upper mounting hole, bent it, and TIG welded it. This took care of all the clearance issues, didn't affect shifting, and the weld is hidden below both boots.
The other problems were with the inner and outer boots. The instructions that come with the shifter will tell you that the factory inner boot will be a tight fit. That's an understatement. Make sure you pull the "inner inner" boot (the boot Hurst supplies to cover the lever/shifter mounting point) as far down as it will go. This will make re-installing the factory inner boot *much* easier.
The other problem was that, given the angle of the Hurst's lever, I had to "re-fold" the factory outer boot. It's hard to describe... basically, if you just button everything back up and leave the boot alone, the shift lever will try to pull the boot out of the console in 1st/3rd/5th. You need to pull the boot down, as tight as you can, around the shifter base - even stuffing some of it down into the console. The top of the boot should be below the bend of the shift lever. You'll probably need a zip tie just below the lip at the top of the boot to keep it from "crawling" up the lever. I used a small black one, pulled very tight & trimmed close - you can't tell there's a zip tie unless you get your face right up to it. The boot will look a bit more "crumply" than stock, but not sloppy - and you won't have to worry about it pulling out on you.
Mike
'00 3.9L 5-spd RC/2WD
K&N FIPK, Superchips, 180* T-stat, MSD wires, Accel coil, NGK FR5's, Hurst shifter, Gibson 2.5" single
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