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JKC
Dodge Dakota
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11/21/2005
12:50:57

Subject: 98 Dakota Ball Joint Replacement
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My 98 Dakota 2WD just failed inspection because of the lower ball joints. I noticed that the original ball joints are riveted in, how does a do-it-yourselfer remove the rivets. The replacements came with bolts that replace the rivets.




shdow
Dodge Dakota
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11/21/2005
13:23:53

RE: 98 Dakota Ball Joint Replacement
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letme know too

my 1998 balljoints are ok
but the rubber boots are but gone

do they make a split boot replacememnt

what state did your vehicle fail

4x2 1998 3.9 ext cab



Josh
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11/21/2005
16:04:47

RE: 98 Dakota Ball Joint Replacement
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You need to drill out the center of the rivet with a bit thats half the size of the head. The rivet should pop off with a bit of a twist, if not, use a bigger bit. Its gonna be a pain in the @ss if you haven't done it before.



red
Dodge Dakota
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11/21/2005
20:49:57

RE: 98 Dakota Ball Joint Replacement
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First you need to cut the head of the rivet off. You can use a grinder, air chisel, or cold chisel. Then drill it out. Start with a small drill bit and work your way up. Finally get a punch and knock the rivet out.



JKC
Dodge Dakota
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11/21/2005
21:56:54

RE: 98 Dakota Ball Joint Replacement
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Thanks for each of your responses. Can this work be performed with the lower control arm still on the vehicle? The area to position the drill in order to drill down on the rivot seems very limited.



shdow
Dodge Dakota
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11/22/2005
17:59:01

RE: 98 Dakota Ball Joint Replacement
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try this link on ball joint rivet removal

http://64.233.167.104/search?q=cache:lp4dDQyKujwJ:dodgeram.info/tsb/2004/02-010-04.htm+TSB+02-010-04&hl=en



cuzindoug
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11/22/2005
19:10:07

RE: 98 Dakota Ball Joint Replacement
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Wow, that makes it seem so easy...until you do it yourself!!!! The lower ball joint's rivets pass through 3 steel plates(the control arm upper plate, ball joint, then control arm lower plate), and that the ball joint mounting hole diameter is smaller than the control arm upper and lower plates...therfore the rivets are "mushroomed" on each side...getting the head of the rivet off is easy, it pounding it out that is hard. I did this when I replaced upper and lower control arm bushings and ball joints, so I had the control arm off. Not a fun time:)

If it ain't broke, fix it til it is.

shdow
Dodge Dakota
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11/25/2005
05:40:08

RE: 98 Dakota Ball Joint Replacement
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do they make a split boot for the ball joints
mine are rotted or is the golberg way around it from having to R&R them I have all talent/tools necessary to do it the long way but prefer short cut I did our ford 98 windstar in 1/2 hour a side drives new now castle nuts and cotters rock

grinding the rivets and punching them thru
to do it comfy requires a lift

they made these trucks fast didn't care about end user too much rivets go on faster



NJQCDak
GenIII
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11/27/2005
09:19:52

RE: 98 Dakota Ball Joint Replacement
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I'm with Cuzindoug. I replaced my ball joints when I lower my Dak. The installer had a hell of a time knocking out the rivets. The new ones are nut and bolts. Not an easy do it yourself job.

'01 QC Sport, 3.9L V6, 5spd, 2wd, Volant Intake, SS Gibson exhaust, MSD Wires, Accel 300 ignition, NAPA Cap, F&B Billet 48mm TB , JBA Ti Ceramic Headers, Autolites 3923s, R/T FSB & Quickor RSB, KYB Monomax shocks, Stillen frt bumper, Crower 1.7 rockers, Superchips Microtuner, Hotchkis 2/3 drop

drhemi76
Dodge Dakota
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12/03/2005
11:52:16

RE: 98 Dakota Ball Joint Replacement
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When replacing your ball joints don't settle for inexpensive joints, pay the extra money for the MOOG ball joints or any other suspension part. The quality is excellent, they last a long time because they are greasable.



nub
Dodge Dakota
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12/05/2005
18:49:58

RE: 98 Dakota Ball Joint Replacement
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the ball joints werent hard to get off, i think the best way is to grind off the heads of the rivot and use an air chisel to seperate it from the arm then again my arm was off when i did it



JKC
Dodge Dakota
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1/10/2006
22:02:23

RE: 98 Dakota Ball Joint Replacement
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Thanks for all the advice!!! I was able to complete the job in a weekend. I replaced both the upper and lowers.
I started by separating the balljoints and moving the lower control arm and tying it up out of the way. I then grinded an X in the head of each rivot and air chiseling them off.
I then drilled holes in the rivots, approx 2/3 the diameter and used a hefty punch to beat the rivots out.
The uppers popped out without much effort, but the lowers were a bear. I had to drill down to where the rivot entered the balljoint plate (which was between two steel fram plates) and pound the rivots out.
The installation went smoothly using bolts instead of rivots.
Again, thanks for all of your advice.



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