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Jeremiah
Dodge Dakota
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6/17/2005
16:30:50

Subject: Refridgerant vented into Cabin
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Today my A/C started venting refridgerant in to the cabin. I noticed a smell, then even after the engine was shut off and the A/C shut off, there was a hissing sound and the smell of R-134a in the cabin. I opened the windows and let it vent for an hour or so, the hissing sound was gone, and of course the A/C was blowing the outside air temperature.

Does anybody have any ideas why it would be doing this?



Jeremiah
Dodge Dakota
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6/17/2005
16:32:21

RE: Refridgerant vented into Cabin
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Oh yeah, it's a 94 Dakota 2wd with the 3.9 V6



daddio
Dodge Dakota
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6/17/2005
16:54:39

RE: Refridgerant vented into Cabin
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if you are sure it was R134A, it's safe to say your Evap Core just bit the dust.



Jeremiah
Dodge Dakota
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6/17/2005
16:57:02

RE: Refridgerant vented into Cabin
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Any idea on the cost of replacing?



daddio
Dodge Dakota
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6/17/2005
17:15:44

RE: Refridgerant vented into Cabin
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not sure $500 to $1000 for a shop. DYI, dont know for sure. an evap can't cost more than $150 and $15 for 134A.



Dan M
Dodge Dakota
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6/17/2005
21:53:21

RE: Refridgerant vented into Cabin
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I just replaced my evaporator core on my 95 3.9. The core itself was just under $100, the disconnect tool was $10 for the a/c lines and the r134 was about $8/can (need 2), I already had the guage/hose to put the r134 into the system.

Takes at least 2 hours to get the core out and replaced. Not a hard job but tedious. I posted some quick instructions a few days ago on the steps to replace it.

- Dan M



KJS
GenIII
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6/18/2005
01:59:09

RE: Refridgerant vented into Cabin
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Jeremiah here is a post that i helped out with another guy so i will copy the post for you:if you need help i'll help ya, i just replaced my heater core and a/c evaporator in my 2000 quad.

once the dash is out of the truck you have to evac the a/c and then unhook the two heater hoses from the driver side of the truck, hopefully you drained all the coolant out or you will have one big mess to clean, then you have to remove all the screws holding the heater box to the fire wall, this is done from inside of the engine compartment, ther are 5 on the fire wall engine side and one iside of the truck connected with a bracker wich you will see easily, the screws are as followed the 1st is on the driver side in plain view, the 2 is under a wire loom in the center of the fire wall, the 3 is right under it, kinda hard to see, the 4 is part of the a/c accumulator bracket, the 5 is really not connected to the heater box but if you do not take of the a/c accumulator bracket for the 5 you'll never get the box out and the 6 is inside the cab connected with a bracket, once you have the a/c discharged and both the heater lines off, the box should just pull out, given you disconnected the heater duct on the left side of the heater box, once the box is out there are screws all around the box and vaccum pump wires, you have to disconnect all of those wires and remove the blend door hold down to get the cover off of the box, if you bought a new heater core make sure that you use all the sticky foam tape that came with the new core, do not try and salvage the old foam as it is prolly soaked if you had a coolant leak, then dry everything out and make sure to check the a/c drain spout while your at it other wise you have to unplug it later, also the heater core and the a/c evaporator core will both just pull out from the box with no problems, i recommend replaceing the a/c evap core too as you don't really want to do it again, if the new core is thicker than the old one you have to break off a plastic tab on the heater box as it prevents the new thicker heater core from seating properly, once you get all this done. cleaned and reinstalled the whole thing is really alot easier to reinstall, as far as the a/c afterwards go to autozone or somewhere and get an a/c recharge kit, anyway i hope this helps and if you have any problems along the way i'll help you more if i can. also i forgot to mention that you will neeed to get an a/c line remover tool or you will not get the a/c lines off of the accumulator,also make sure you label all of the vacuum lines that you took off and where they came from other wise problems may arise, after i was finished with the whole job i found 3 screws that where left over, god only knows where they came from, and i hope nothing falls apart but it's been a couple of months for me now and so far no problems. good luck

p.s i have pictures of what it looks like with the dash out on my cardomain web site.



My truck looks like it was in a knife fight, and lost! http://www.cardomain.com/ride/1275365

Dan M
Dodge Dakota
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6/18/2005
06:19:00

RE: Refridgerant vented into Cabin
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a few difference between 95 and 2000.

There's some good instructions at alldatadiy.com. I went from those - $24.95/year. There's also instructions in haynes for replacing the heater core - basically same steps to get to the evaporator core.

Search for my post, it has some more complete details. Be sure to pay the money to get the system vacuumed after replacing and before filing the system up with refrigerant. You'll want to get the air and moisture out of the system.

- Dan M



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