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john j
Dodge Dakota
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2/03/2003
20:36:52
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 Subject: rear end
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what would be the best rear end i can get for my 88 dakota out of a junk yard that i wouldnt have to modify to much to fit
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99dakota
Dodge Dakota
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2/04/2003
08:39:23
|  RE: rear end
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find a 97 or newer v8 4x4 or an R/T it should have a 9.25 you should have a 8.25 now it may not be best but it should be the easiest
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john j
Dodge Dakota
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2/06/2003
15:49:45
| RE: rear end
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is there any rear ends from any old mopars or any thing i can get out of a junk yard that has a posi that wont bbe to hard to put in
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Kowalski
Dodge Dakota
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2/06/2003
18:07:25
| RE: rear end
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Spring perch's would have to be moved and all are different width from Dakota. It's been done but expect a project.
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88 SC DAK
Dodge Dakota
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2/06/2003
20:49:30
| RE: rear end
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The gen 3 rears fit in the gen 1's?
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FazDak
GenII
2/07/2003
17:19:08
| RE: rear end
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I hear a 71 Mustang 9" will bolt right in and I know that a A body Mopar rear will bolt right in.
Both rears above will be quite a bit narrower and will need a high outside offset rim afterwards.
The Mustang rear will give you a 5 bolt on 4.5" circle which is nice because than you use a 90 Dak rotor to get the matching bolt pattern.
The A body will be a very rare 5 on 4" but you you can purchase axles with the 5 on 4.5 but there not to cheap.
There is alternatives like my rear from a Cuda but there is welding and all involved.
Keep in mind, if you go with any rear other than a Dak 8 1/4 (or maybe 9 1/4, dunno) you will loose your rear antilock.
88, yes they do.
Cant really tell but my profile pict is of my 8 3/4 just after I installed it.
Good luck.
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88 SC DAK
Dodge Dakota
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2/07/2003
18:17:20
| RE: rear end
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I didn't think they would have close to the same track. I'll be putting a 8 3/4 from a Challenger under mine in the spring. Was going to use one from a 73 Roadrunner but one end is roast beef.
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FazDak
GenII
2/08/2003
16:35:47
| RE: rear end
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Hope your good at welding or have a cheap welder.
You will have to cut off the stock spring perches, weld on new and weld on lower shock mounts.
On the lower shock mounts, I recomend that you use lower coil over mounts, they work perfectly as shock mounts and they give you alot of flexability as far as shock length and of course if you ever go real than you have your lower coil over mounts already in place.
Good luck and if you need close up picts let me know.
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88 SC DAK
Dodge Dakota
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2/08/2003
17:05:40
| RE: rear end
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Thanks Faz. I have a friend who's excellent at fabricating. I have the MP spring perches and Competition Engineering shock mounts. Hopefully we've thought of everything before we get into it. I have a set of 3.23's going into it, I have 2.94's in it now so that will be a set up.
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FazDak
GenII
2/09/2003
12:16:42
| RE: rear end
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A few more things........
You will need to disco your ABS module under the pass side kik pannel (if you have it).
My 8 3/4 sat for many many years so all new hard break lines were in order, that can get a bit expensive from places like Year One. I found that the stock dist block and hard lines from my 8 1/4 fit almost perfectly with a bit of rebending.
Make sure you have matching yolks, if the 8 3/4 has the small series you can just by an adaptor joint with 2 end large and 2 small, I have the part# somewhere if you need it.
Be prepared, you may have to have your driveshaft shortened. Don not leave the shaft in and drive it unless you have an inch or so distance between the tailshaft seal and the yolk, you will ruin the seal and possibly do more damage if you do.
And lastly, if you want to do it right and not have a bad brake perportioning problem you will need to get a Willwood (thats what I used) perportioning valve. Most all 8 3/4's had larger brakes than any Daks 8 1/4's, now removing any ABS this makes for a VERY touchy situation in low traction/braking situations.
Good luck.
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88 SC DAK
Dodge Dakota
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2/09/2003
13:34:15
| RE: rear end
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Thanks Faz. The rear I'm using right now is just the housing and axles. The backing plates are from the RR. My brother works in a brake shop so bending the lines and getting new shoes, hardware and wheel cylnders are no big deal. My truck is before ABS so no worry there. If there is a problem with the drive shaft I'm going to push my plans up for going to a 727 and a gearvendors overdrive. And if that happens kiss a new motor good bye for another year.
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FazDak
GenII
2/09/2003
20:00:20
| RE: rear end
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Cool.
Just tyin to help, before I did mine I looked for every bit of info I could and all of it still didnt prepare me completly.
Again, good luck and keep us posted.
PS: an A518 is the same as a 727 with OD added, I know the OD your refering to is a stout piece but Ive never heard of any rebuilt A518 having a problem with 500hp or less.
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88 SC DAK
Dodge Dakota
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2/09/2003
20:24:24
| RE: rear end
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The way I'm looking at this is the cost for a rebuilt and modifications for a 518 is just a few hundred less than the gearvendor, and I will always have the od unit if I want to put it on something else. Once the 518 goes I have to go through the whole thing and I think the 727 are cheaper to rebuild, along with cheaper and more of a selection of stall converters. I'd rather have the number for the 518 (.69 for the 518 and .78 for the GV) but in the long run I think I'll be better off with the GV.
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