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Ed
Dodge Dakota
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12/06/2002
22:21:11
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 Subject: 97 5.2L cam questions...
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I am looking for advice on getting more performance out of my Dakota, especially in the mid range (stoplight to stoplight) rpm range.
My Dakota is a 97 5.2L, std cab auto, 3.90 limited slip rear axle with 83K miles, The only mods I have are flowmaster exhaust and a modified cold air intake. I am planning some upgrades and would like your opinions. I am planning on a cam change and possibly intake mod's. (the engine is partially disassembled due to an accident) The cam I am looking at is a Comp cams 20-602-8, 262/264 dur or 206/210 @.050, lift is 480/512. Is this too much cam for a daily driver?? Will it hurt/help mileage?? I am looking for more mid range, the motor seems flat above 3500 rpm. Will this cam require a valve spring change or will it work ok with the stock springs if I retain the factory rpm limited ECM?? Can the intake mods be done without sending it to someone like Hughes?? Are there any links on the web with a description of the mods?? Is the Mopar M-1 2v intake a good choice instead of the intake mods or will it kill the low end torque??
Thanks in advance!!
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Daniel D
Dodge Dakota
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12/07/2002
19:15:02
| RE: 97 5.2L cam questions...
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i would e-mail Marty at KRC Performance. he sells those cams, and he woule be able to tell you which cam would work for you.
www.krcperformance.com
Daniel D
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DAHEMIKOTA
Dodge Dakota
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12/08/2002
00:32:04
| RE: 97 5.2L cam questions...
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Shorten the intake runners 2" and use a 1" aluminum spacer under the throttle body. Match the ports to the head.Clean up the area just above the intake and exhaust seats so they are round and a little larger in diameter than the valve seat. This will direct the intake air to make it go into the head with less restriction. The exhaust exit is improved by doing this also. Raise the roof of the exhaust ports near the header flange . Use a gasket for a guide. Match the headers to the head. Don't use the production computer. Get the race one from Mopar Performance. You should match the heads to the block by installing the heads on the bare block and scribing a circle on the head gasket surface by going through the bottom of the block.(with the crank and pistons removed) Carefully remove metal to the scribe line.this removes any possible hot spots in the combustion chamber. Headers are a must. Finish off the exhaust with 3" pipe from the headers back. Use a 3" inch in & out muffler. If you run a tail pipe, make it a slight bit smaller like maybe 2 3/4". This will reduce the posibility of a high speed rap which causes harmonics in the exhaust system that decrease efficiancy. Some people think it sounds cool,but it usually costs horsepower. I did a high stall converter instead of a cam. My 4X4 5.2 with 3.55 rear runs 14.07 Quarter mile.I don't run nitrios,or a supercharger.I do use a leaded foot.
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POWER HUNGRY
Dodge Dakota
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12/08/2002
20:51:45
|  RE: 97 5.2L cam questions...
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The cam you are talkig about will do what you want and will be fine as a daily driver. I don't think it will hurt your mpg's since it is small enough to boost even low-end torque. It will allow you to give your truck less gas to get it up to speed(if you can keep your foot out of it). I don't know if your stock valve springs would work with that much lift. I would give Marty@krc performance a ring like Daniel D said to get the details. I wouldn't use them anyway since they have 83,000 miles on them. There would be a chance they'd cause valve float and destroy the engine. I would definitely get new springs for peace of mind, since your thinking of other mods and you have the engine a part already. I would also get roller rockers and a new timing chain when you get the cam and springs.
I wouldn't get the M-1 manifold just yet since you have the stock computer unless you have problems with your stock one. There is a post about the m-1 in which someone posted a link to thier site show thier mods to the stock manifold. I don't remember which post but if you do a search you'll find it, plus you'll see what people that bought it have to say about the m-1.
I would also think about getting the mopar performance torque converter(probably the biggest improvement, stoplight to stoplight), shift kit(clean-up, speed-up your shifts) , headers and a throttle body.
good luck and keep us informed on your progress
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Lesley
GenIII
12/08/2002
21:06:49
| RE: 97 5.2L cam questions...
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That's the same cam that I have decided on, and all the advice I have gotten is pretty much the same as what these guys said, including getting in touch with KRC. I got the mopar pcm and plan on getting the torque convertor, cloyes double roller timing chain, headers for sure, hopefully roller rockers while the engine is out depending on $$$ (could be scary).
97 3.9 CC Sport. JBA stainless headers, Borla Turbo XL stainless muffler & tip, 17 x10 Boyd Coddington Smoothies, FMS injectors, V8 TB, Quick D stainless air intake, Have but not Installed yet: 5.9 litre 360
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Ed
Dodge Dakota
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12/08/2002
21:26:21
| RE: 97 5.2L cam questions...
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The reason I was thinking about the M-1 intake is because I am going to have to replace the stock intake anyway. It has a hole in it from the accident. My son removed the front of the truck for me but the hit was pretty high and to the right so the frame is ok. I need a timing cover and all cooling also. I was going to go anead with the cam change and replace the timing also. The more I think about it and read other posts It seems the most logical choice is the M-1. Since the truck is a regular cab with a 3.92 rear axle it has gobs of low end anyway but it runs out of steam above 3,500rpm. I plan on driving it for another couple of years so I don't want to do anything that will reduce durability. Is the R/T cam much of a power boost or a waste of time??
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POWER HUNGRY
Dodge Dakota
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12/08/2002
21:58:07
| RE: 97 5.2L cam questions...
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I wouldn't get any mpp cam since I have heard too many mixed results. You might want to check out this post: http://www.dodgedakota.net/boards/v8/2347.html, I have been looking into the same info. for a while but can't decide how crazy I want to go. Its kind of strange how everone has the opposite problem with the power-band as I do? I didn't think the slightly different specs. between the model years would be that big of a change. I'm thinking I'll go to with a set-up like Rtxpres: http://www.dragtruck.com/ENTRIES/20KM1FD2KWBP.html
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Runner
Dodge Dakota
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11/11/2003
20:43:30
| RE: 97 5.2L cam questions...
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Still lost looking at all the cam info and lack of cams offered for the 5.2L mag ,i have a 94 4x4 auto/reworked, 3:90 gears flow master duals,
and want a (retro) sounding cam with some help in the mid range pulling area keeping stock type springs and rollers,This truck is not a daily driver only a weekend play at the beach in the sand truck.should i deep 6 the idea and move on to a chevy due to the lack of stuff offered on these trucks or is this option real ??
Thanks
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gen1dak
Dodge Dakota
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11/12/2003
20:30:33
| RE: 97 5.2L cam questions...
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Ed, while limited rpm can help with weak springs, it does nothing to help when the cam has more lift than the springs will allow, meaning coil bind. The only ways to correct for this are to use dished retainers to allow more spring travel for beefier coils, machining the valve seats out to accomplish the same thing, or use a higher quality spring that, by virtue of better metal, allows for higher spring rates with thinner coils. Whatever way you go, you will have to have better valvesprings. Mopar Performance makes the perfect fit for this. The stock springs aren't good for much over .430 at the valve, and you're looking at .480+. With 3.90's, you probably won't even notice what you'd lose below 2000 rpm with the M1, if you lost anything. The cam may more than cover that. The cam you're looking at is in now way too much for daily use, but why not get the CompCams XR264R-14. It's the latest, under their Xtreme Energy line. Very close in overall dimensions, but more net duration and faster ramps for even better performance within the same rpm.
Runner....If you want a retro-sounding cam, you'll need a custom grind. I haven't seen anything for Magnums that'd make that retro-rumpity-rump sound that will work with stock springs. As stated, the stockers tolerate just over .430 at the valve. The only way you'll get an old-style sound with a mild lift like that is to have quite a bit of duration, or, preferably, a moderate duration cam ground on 108 degree lobe centers. This will give great midrange torque with all the sound of the old days. Just tell them what you want and they'll do it for you. Just be ready to pay over $300 for that custom-ground roller cam.
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gen1dak
Dodge Dakota
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11/12/2003
20:38:44
| RE: 97 5.2L cam questions...
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Don't forget the MP HD pushrods. They're thicker to prevent flexing at high lift.
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runner
Dodge Dakota
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11/13/2003
13:32:31
| RE: 97 5.2L cam questions...
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Good deal i have found a factory cam #p5249549/dur 250/264 centerline of 109 and lift @458/467 ,comes with lifters and springs, this along with the hp airfilter and engine controller i hope this will get me something of the sort.They have a upgraded converter but offers only 1900/2100 stall and i am told this is only 200 more than stock per the dodge guys and they said stay with the stock one?
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gen1dak
Dodge Dakota
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11/13/2003
19:43:36
| RE: 97 5.2L cam questions...
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I don't know what the bad reports were on the MP cams......runner, your choice is an excellent cam. Very flexible and pulls hard through 6000rpm. Works well with the stock intake, but even better with the M1. The beauty of it all is if you want a bit more, punch it up with 1.7:1 roller rockers. This kicks your lift to .486/.496, and the upgraded springs will work with that increase. It's also very friendly with superchargers if you decide to go there later on. The actual stall numbers are influenced by the gears you're running, torque output, and even the weight of the truck, but 2100 is probably about right for the high side. Thing is, you can't go for much more stall than that because the overdrive will be locked up at just a little higher, but the TC will still be slipping, and pulling overdrive, it'll be slipping a lot. I'd probably stay with the stocker and go with 3.90's in the rear. You always have the option of doing it later if it's a bit pokey off the line. If the TC croaks, naturally, it's a worthy upgrade. Just be sure to get those HD pushrods.
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