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99R/T
Dodge Dakota
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12/09/2007
22:42:00
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 Subject: light cam
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i would like to install a light cam while i have my motor out, any suggestions, its the 5.9
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Easy one
Dodge Dakota
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12/10/2007
00:25:39
| RE: light cam
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Aluminum would be lightest, then steel.
Steel would last quite a bit longer, though.
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.boB
Dodge Dakota
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12/10/2007
06:04:26
| RE: light cam
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What other mods? What are your goals? Where do you live and drive (altitude)?
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99r/t
Dodge Dakota
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12/10/2007
06:41:35
| RE: light cam
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i live in ohio, the truck is not a dd, i will have a fresh rebuilt motor, pnp'd heads, m1 intake manifold, holley tb, edelbrock headers, jba y pipe, spintech exhaust, and some hs 1.7 rollers down the road, but im not sure what specs to run on the cam, i dont want anything crazy becaues i dont want to have to change injectors or do any fuel management bullcrap
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miltonwaddums
Dodge Dakota
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12/10/2007
10:42:16
| RE: light cam
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I'm not an expert on cam grinds, but I'd like to give my quick thoughts.
With those mods, a light cam would do wonders if you're looking to maintain the 360's low end grunt. However, with the 1.7 RRs (down the road) you'll probably be stuck with an almost stock grind.
FYI, I helped my old roomate do similar bolt ons to a 318. TB, 1.7 HS RR's, and K&N intake were added, however he didn't opt for the M1, exhaust tweaks or pnp. He also bought a Superchips tuner and swears by it. This may be enough fuel management for you, but a full dyno tune with new injectors would do absolute wonders on your setup. Shift kit is a must.
IMHO, I would use the stock cam with 1.7 RR's and a superchips tuner for this setup. In terms of internals, I think reducing the rotating/reciprocating mass would add tons of real, butt dyno proven RWHP. Keep in mind the 360 (lately) was used as more of a tow/haul motor than racing, so rotating/reciprocating mass would actually help sometimes. For pure "racing" performance, this mass is incredibly costly. Remember, to realize torque that reaches the transmission, you have to subtract the motor's rotational inertia multiplied by the angular (rotational) acceleration. Lightweight pistons, rods, push rods, and crankshaft will help with this. A less expensive route will be to swiss cheese your flywheel, especially towards the outside.
Good luck with your project,
Jay
-------------------------
Good, Fast, Cheap - Pick 2.
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.boB
Dodge Dakota
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12/10/2007
16:20:20
| RE: light cam
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With the changes you're making, you're going to need a custom tune.
In order to run the way you want it to - and not blow up - the fuel/air ratio must be accurate. The changes you make are going to allow more air to enter tha chamber, and increase the chamber pressure. That means you need more fuel.
If you do the work and you don't need to reprogramm the computer, that means you havn't changed the air flow. No increase in power. A comlete waste of time and money.
Go to HughesEngines.com and check out the camshafts and parts available. But plan on a custom dyno tune. Expensive, but worth it.
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miltonwaddums
Dodge Dakota
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12/10/2007
16:35:07
| RE: light cam
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.boB,
Couldn't have said it better myself. I do have one slight disagreement though. The PCM and injectors will *try* to dump in more fuel. It all depends on how far the stock fuel management system can go. Not to mention timing.
Either way, it will suck compared to having a dyno tune, and may not be reliable nor durable.
A good tuner can probably get you pretty good results in 1 or 2 hours.
Jay
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ScojoDak
Dodge Dakota
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12/10/2007
19:39:47
| RE: light cam
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To exploit all those mods, let's not forget a 2800 or so stall torque converter and/or rear end gears.
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99r/t
Dodge Dakota
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12/10/2007
21:52:44
| RE: light cam
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ok let me throw this out there, leave the stock cam in, stock rockers, throw in a nice torque converter and a shift kit, what can i expect from that, and what torque converter and shift kit should i go with
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miltonwaddums
Dodge Dakota
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12/10/2007
22:58:11
|  RE: light cam
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First let me start off with saying that I have never installed a shift kit, so I am by no means an expert. I know that Transgo makes a reprogramming kit the 46re. http://transgo.com/rpg_dodge.php. Someone else around here probably knows more what you want.
I'm not sure that a stall converter is what you need. It looks like the only thing you've done to hurt your low-end is the M1, so I'm not sure that a different stall rpm is needed.
Why are you dropping the RR's? What about a plug and play computer tuner (i.e. superchips)?
Jay
P.S. - Where in Ohio are you?
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.boB
Dodge Dakota
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12/11/2007
10:27:54
| RE: light cam
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Skip a higher stall converter. Won't help you with an essentially stock engine. It will make the truck sluggish, and increase heat.
A reprogram of the trans is usally a good idea. But be carefull that you pick the right program. A street/strip tune on a tow vehicle would suck.
Back to the engine. Don't shy away from a custom tune. Do the mods you want to make, and pay the couple hundred bux for a tune. If you don't, you'll be kicking yourself later for not doing it.
Use an aftermarket cam. Stock rocker arms are fine for street use. Have the heads ported and shaved.
If my engine dies, I'll be making some significant changes. Compression, cam, heads, custom tune. Nothing radical, just the things Dodge should have done to begin with, IMO.
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miltonwaddums
Dodge Dakota
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12/11/2007
10:40:48
| RE: light cam
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Right on .boB.
I have to say that roller rockers may be very helpful to decrease friction in the drivetrain (stock ratio). While you're at it, stiffer valve springs may be in order, depending on your grind.
I agree with the dyno tune. I know I've kinda been back and forth on it (with superchips as an alternative), but a dyno tune will definitely be worth it. The dyno tune will fully unlock the potential of that engine, bypassing all emissions limiting stuff. I hope you dont live in an e-check county, because this engine unlocked like this will fail emissions with flying colors.
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