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Satakieli
Dodge Dakota
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8/05/2004
17:17:22
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 Subject: Just starting out
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I just recieved a 1988 V6 3.9L Dak as a gift from a family member. Milage isnt too terribly high and it has a new engine, transmission, and driveshaft .... Im looking towards making it kick some import ass, but i dont know where to start. I have a lot of differnt options nagging at me like ram air or cold air intake; or Turbo or SC. also another question if i tear out the bench seat and put two light-weight bucket seats in would it make any difference and where could i get some for less than 150$. I dont want it to just kick ass i also want it to look it. Any help at all would be great Thanx
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Tnjones
Dodge Dakota
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8/05/2004
17:57:30
|  RE: Just starting out
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In my drag racing days we used to use 100lbs/.10 sec as a rule of thumb for weight savings. Our trucks start off way heavier than the bodies of most drag cars so it will probably take mush more weight savings to get that extra 1/10th.
The only car I started stock with was a '70 maverick. I picked up nearly 1/2 second by stripping out all the carpet/pad, the back seat and all the stock wire!
If you're doing it for looks just make sure you're not adding weight by going to buckets (likely because you've got 2 sets of slides and adjusters). If you're doing it for speed, save your money unless you can lose 100lbs or more. Only you can decide what your willing to give up for style vs speed.
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Satakieli
Dodge Dakota
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8/05/2004
18:37:14
| RE: Just starting out
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Thanx much for that rule of thumb. As far as the seats go the bench seat that i do have in there is about 40 lbs heavier than the bucket seats i want to put in. Its only a single cab so i dont have a lot of wieght in the cab. I think that if i tear out the ac, the bed liner, the tailgate, and rear bumper i could possibly save 200+ lbs. would a bed cover be a wise choice to reduce drag? i dont know if a spoiler would be wise considering 1 where would i put it? 2. the weight added even if it is only 20-50 lbs. but on the other hand the extra down force to keep the wheels and power down on the pavement where it belongs. any thoughts considering that would be helpful. Also where else could i shave off some weight? i couldnt afford any carbon fiber body kits right now. In my area they're REALLY expensive because i live near a millitary base where 1 out of 4 marines think its a great idea to try to make a rice burner, hence the reason why i hate them. ive grown tired of seeing them heh heh but ive digressed. as far as style goes for me its mostly in a new paint job on the exterior and interior and a couple of little things that weigh no more than 10 lbs such as a new shifter knob and stereo(the stereo in it really sux not even a tape deck:-p). Oh one thing i have forgotten the truck doesnt have a tachometer even though its a 5spd manual. i need to get one and i dont know the red line revs or the power band on the truck. any way to help find that would be really helpful thanx again
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.boB
Dodge Dakota
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8/05/2004
19:49:15
| RE: Just starting out
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You have a pretty good start with that truck. It's no heavier than the average sedan - but more than a rice burner. If you start ripping stuff out, you'll likely regret it later - esp things like A/C. Do you really need a back seat at all? It would be a nice place for nitrous.
For the rear, leave it alone. You're not likely to make enough of a change to matter. Wind coming off the roof will make the bed one giant wing.
For power, start by doing the standard hot rod things: lower gear ratio, better exhaust, computer mods, etc.
The most bang for the buck is going to be a power adder, either nitrous or a supercharger. A blower is expensive, but there's nothing like it for durable, all day power. And dolllar for dollar, it's hard to beat.
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FazDak
GenII
8/05/2004
19:57:35
| RE: Just starting out
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Unfourtunantly you have one of the most underpowered Daks ever produced. 125hp factory rated means about 80-90 rear wheel hp. Thats close to a Civic EX which is a lot lighter and has way less areo drag.
I have owned an 88 and I can tell you....thats not a great place to start for the mission your after.
I can give you advice after advice but the outcome will most likely be...a lot of money spent and still get spanked buy a properly tuned turbo Civic.
If your dead serious about this engine/drivetrain combo beatin up on import/tuner azz then I hope you understand it will take a lot of $$ and it will mean tearing the engine down for things like head porting, ballancing and such.
Dont get me wrong..it can be done, just not cheaply or overnight.
My suggestion, look into swapping in a V8. One of the latest Mopar magazines just built a carb'd 318 that made 400+hp with off the shelf, no special order parts.
Good luck to ya.
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FazDak
GenII
8/05/2004
20:03:06
| RE: Just starting out
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I forgot to mention....your gonna have a tough time with your ignition and fuel should you decide on turbo or supercharger. There is no prebuilt kit to fit TBI 3.9's.
A wet N2O system on the otherhand will work just fine. I highly suggest free flowing exaust, 160 thermostat and a step or 2 colder plugs. cold air intake of course.
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Satakieli
Dodge Dakota
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8/05/2004
20:23:56
| RE: Just starting out
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thanx guys. the engine thats in it though is not the original. the original engine blew when i was learning how to drive stick :-p... that was a while ago. the engine in it now is a newer dak engine i believe a 95. ive had the power rated before at about 164 hp about a couple weeks ago. so im getting the power i need. Being that i am a student mechanic balancing the engine head porting and port polishing i can get done for dirt cheap. I dont want to put a NO2 system in it because my fiance' will probably want to drive it and she has a little problem with pushing buttons, and i do want it to be street legal. im not looking to have it only for drag strips. though i will race it legally. ok now that i have my weight and intake/exhaust explained, should i lower the truck any? it does sit pretty high. im not going to measure it right this second considering its raining im guessing its about a 9-12" clearence. should i drop it and if i do by how much.
thanx
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FazDak
GenII
8/05/2004
20:46:28
| RE: Just starting out
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"the engine in it now is a newer dak engine i believe a 95"
A 95 would be a Sequential Multi Port Injected (SMPI) engine, it wouldnt work in your 88 having Throttle Body Injection (TBI) so you must be confused on that.
"ive had the power rated before at about 164 hp about a couple weeks ago"
If thats RWHP your getting more to the rear wheels then a stock 88 318 does.
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Ken
Dodge Dakota
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8/05/2004
20:48:50
| RE: Just starting out
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Why lower it, wanna be like the ricers?? hehe, j/k
I'd start with a CAI intake. Usually the 2nd item is a Mopar PCM. Since you have a different year engine in there, not sure how an aftermarket one would work, even for those years (hmmm does Ma Mopar even make 'em for 95??? not sure...). Then I'd shoot for a Cat-back exhaust, upgrade the TB to a TB off a stock 318, then slap on some headers and a cat. That's the order I would do it in anyway. Oh yeah, don't forget the 180 T-stat and autolite 3923's. The 180 will keep it from getting real warm in the summer, which will hurt performance.
Soft Tonneau - wouldn't be a bad idea. They don't really help a whole lot, I did see maybe .5 mpg gain on my hwy mileage, but that's it, nothing significant. I got it so I could cover stuff in the back of my truck, keep stuff from getting wet, etc.
I'm not all too familiar with the Gen 2 dakotas, especially the engines, but those are fairly good rules of thumb with the 3.9L engine. Oh, stay away from the Jet chip's, they're ping-freaks and don't really help performance.
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Satakieli
Dodge Dakota
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8/05/2004
21:13:02
| RE: Just starting out
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Ok thanx Fazdak. i dont really know too much about daks or trucks, considering i would prefer a camero, or a vette but im taking what i can get and its free so why complain right? any way if u could give me a breakdown on TBIs and SMPIs the differences etc and any other types. i do know that the 88 i was given isnt quite stock, a lot of changes have been made to it. a lot i dont really know about so now i kind of feel like a blind robber trying to rob a bank :-p anyway to find out whats been changed would be great too. oh and good point ken... lowering would be good for aerodynamics and all but why be like the ricers? at least ill be able to go over speed bumps he he he. thanx for the advice. any advice on a engine i should put in would be great. i would prefer something not brand new. i could only afford so much at a time. thanx guys
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gen1dak
Dodge Dakota
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8/05/2004
21:43:41
| RE: Just starting out
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A Magnum V8 block will mate with the V6 mounts in your ride since the "triad" mounting points were added to Mopar V8's when the Magnums arrived in 1992. The V6 had them from the beginning. Pre-Magnum V8 blocks only mount by their "ears" and require a crossmember to be added. Get a Magnum block and you're done. Add a Mopar Performance ignition kit, 4V intake for Magnum blocks, 4V carb, etc, stick a fresh A518 behind it, make sure you have at least an 8 1/4 rear, and let 'er rip. Keep the rear bumper. It's a great traction aid. The added grip (from the leverage exerted by the weight and distance of the overhang behind the axle) will benefit you more than that particular weight reduction. Anyway, that's the quick version. There are details, but ya gotta decide which way you want to go.
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Ken
Dodge Dakota
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8/05/2004
21:46:49
| RE: Just starting out
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Hmmmm Well, not sure what would fit well in a GenI, I know the Gen2's are pretty good to drop a big block in, more engine room than a Gen 3. Should be able to drop a 360 in there if ya want, or a 318. Course, if ya really want power, drop a 426 HEMI in there ;-)
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Satakieli
Dodge Dakota
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8/06/2004
09:19:47
| RE: Just starting out
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Thanx gen1dak that helps quite a bit. ok my next question. Exhaust, i heard a few things and i want a little detail if possible. on the dak is the stock exhaust, so of course i want to upgrade, however i do know that if the exhaust is too big i lose the back pressure that adds torque, so what size exhaunst should i put on that still leaves that mean sound
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Ken
Dodge Dakota
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8/06/2004
09:45:44
| RE: Just starting out
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With the V6, I think either 2 or 2 1/2"? 3" would be too large. If going dual, I think 1-1/2"? Sorry, don't know much about the V6's :)
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Satakieli
Dodge Dakota
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8/06/2004
09:51:40
| RE: Just starting out
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well im going to drop a v8 magnum... a lot more power so what 2" dual exhaust should be good?
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FazDak
GenII
8/06/2004
11:10:11
| RE: Just starting out
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If your going with a healthy magV8 I recommend 2 1/2 true duals or an aftermarket "Y" pipe to 3" cat and muff then split at the rear to 2-2 1/2's.
You'll also need an electric fan, not enough room for a belt driven one in the snubbed front end of Gen1's with an 8.
Good luck
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Satakieli
Dodge Dakota
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8/06/2004
18:29:47
| RE: Just starting out
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Thanx much fazdak uve been really helpful. i will say that i dont know a lot, and id rather be asking questions, than be the guy who thinks they know what they're talking about. any ways i suppose after i put the engine in i should change the RWD Diff./driveshaft. Should i, and what should i put in if need be?
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FazDak
GenII
8/06/2004
21:23:27
| RE: Just starting out
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The driveshaft will all depend on what you do for tranny. You will need to get what ever engine tranny combo your gonna use in the Dak and then measure and have your driveshaft shortened or a new one made longer.
I simply installed a different rear in my Dak and needed a new driveshaft.
The rear should be an 8 1/4. Its a pretty tough little rear. I suggest you put a Dana TracLock and a bit lower ring and pinion in it and see how she holds up before you go looking for a better rear that costs a lot more. Unless of course your going to sink a bunch in the engine and get 350+ RWHP out of it, then it would be a good idea to go ahead and get a better rear like a 9 1/4 or better yet an 8 3/4 from a pre71 Mopar. Although the 8 3/4 isnt a bolt in like the 9 1/4.
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Satakieli
Dodge Dakota
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8/12/2004
19:19:31
| RE: Just starting out
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Alright then... The transmission is stock... what should i change it to that gives that good close ratio? and i also need a tachometer. It didnt come with one. Anybody know the powerband and max RPMs it should be at?
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