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Dakota Performance
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DSW
Dodge Dakota
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3/29/2004
21:02:42

Subject: Powerstop or Powerslot?
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I am going to be upgrading the front brake rotors of my 00 CC and was wondering which were better for the Dak's, Powerstop rotors (drilled) or Powerslot rotors (slotted)?

Summit has the Powerstop rotors and pads for about $230. Anyone know of a cheaper source for the Powerstops or Powerslots?



WipLash
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3/29/2004
21:49:18

RE: Powerstop or Powerslot?
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I don't have a set of drilled or slotted rotors. I'm running the Carbon-Metalic Pads they sell at AutoZone. They really eat up the rotors. In just 9,000 miles I already have a groove in my stock rotors, but they have not WARPED!! This is the first Dodge truck I've owned out of 10 that has not warped the rotors in less than 7,000 miles. I know it isn't the rotors on this truck being better than average (luck of the draw). It has to be the pads. I have no fade or warpage. If you look at my rotors they are TOAST!! Yet, they have not warped. THIS WAS AN ACCIDENT!! A-Zone didn't have the cheap pads I wanted so I got the exspensive metalic ones. I will be using these pads from now on. I'll just replace these rotors with the $50.00 Chinese rotors when they wear out. From the looks of it, these Metalic pads are going to go through about 3 sets of rotors before they need replacing. Another thing that amazes me about these pads is that with the front end off the ground you can spin the front wheels and the pads don't drag on the rotors. This means less rolling resistance which equals better fuel mileage and lower ET's. Just my $0.02 worth. I was going to do the cross drilled rotors and I'm now going to see how long I can go with these stock rotors.



SUDZ5
Dodge Dakota
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3/29/2004
22:19:05

RE: Powerstop or Powerslot?
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Here's one for ya > Wy 99 dakota worped at 14.000 > Waranty was up at 12 but dealer redid them for me free > Great dealer but that only lasted 2,000 miles soooooooo > I went to NAPA > they have 2 grades a rotors > 56 bucks each and 97 bucks each > I have a small machine shop and an account with them > i got the 97 ones for 57 bucks each > i never changed the pads > They was like new > I now have 50,000 on her with not a problem and pads still look great > Kinda goes against the grain a what others are saying about the pads eating roters with to much heat > I do pull a 19 foot camper and a 17 foot boat a lot too




rich
Dodge Dakota
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3/29/2004
22:33:41

RE: Powerstop or Powerslot?
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slotted...the drilled ones get stress cracks too easily



Donkey
Dodge Dakota
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3/29/2004
23:53:06

RE: Powerstop or Powerslot?
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Slotted ones, more surface area to dissipate heat.



ScojoDak
Dodge Dakota
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3/30/2004
09:35:29

RE: Powerstop or Powerslot?
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26,000 miles ago, I bought the powerslot/hawk pads combo. Now I rotate the earth when I stop. No brake fade or rotor warpage. Best parts I've bought yet.



01 RT/BC
Dodge Dakota
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3/30/2004
10:15:06

RE: Powerstop or Powerslot?
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Why not cross drilled and slotted?



rich
Dodge Dakota
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3/30/2004
11:33:27

RE: Powerstop or Powerslot?
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drilled ones get stress cracks



01 RT/BC
Dodge Dakota
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3/30/2004
13:40:22

RE: Powerstop or Powerslot?
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If you're going to use mods use good ones and get a brembo brake system, drilled and slotted they will not crack.



DSW
Dodge Dakota
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3/30/2004
15:27:04

RE: Powerstop or Powerslot?
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I had a set of AutoZone rotors and pads ($80) on my truck that lasted 30K before they warped 3-6 months ago. I put the same stuff back on and it lasted, well,,, 3-6 months, about 8-10K. Guess I lucked out on the first set of rotors or the new ones are crap.

Figured I should put on the Powerstops or Powerslots since I am towing my 3000# boat more these days.

Suggestions on where to get the Powerslot/Hawk pad combo at a reasonable price?



00 RT/BC
Dodge Dakota
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3/30/2004
15:50:24

RE: Powerstop or Powerslot?
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Brakes



.boB
Dodge Dakota
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3/30/2004
16:39:53

RE: Powerstop or Powerslot?
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Well, before you buy anything you need to figure out what you need and what each one does. Holes and slots have different purposes. And you probably don't need either one.

Holes: A good heavy rotor is two discs held together with an air gap in between. Really good discs will have directional vanes in this air space to improve air flow. Holes are drilled from the center of the rotor through the surface to allow for cooling air to flow across the pad/surface area. Very helpfull for heavy and repeated braking like road courses and short tracks. Drilled rotors will have to replaced long before a solid one will.

Slots: Pads produce a gas as they heat up - called "outgassing". This gas can form a layer between the pad and the rotor, allowing the pads to float and preventing full contact. Important for long heavy braking like trailering in the mountains or roads courses. BUT - a quality modern pad will not outgas like they used to. So this feature is pointless with a good set of pads.

Braking is accomplished by converting rotational and kinetic energy into heat energy. Heat energy is mostly formed from friction. So the more friction you have, the better the brakes will function. That's why bigger brakes and bigger caliper work better. It's all based on surface area. The clamping function of the caliper also helps somewhat by applying torque drag.

So now think about that. You want your brakes to work better because - face it - Dakota brakes just are not that good. To accomplish that you want to increase friction. If you drill holes or cut slots, what will you do? You'll decrease surface area. Just the opposite of what you're trying to accomplish.

So, how to get your brakes working better. Increase friction and increase torque drag. Better pads, bigger pads, and bigger discs. If you cut into the surface area of your stock discs, you are making them smaller. As we all know, a byproduct of friction is heat. Heat destroys the materials and causes early failure. Quality pads can take a lot of heat before losing their grip. A road race car will having cooling ducts to the center of the disc before drilling any holes.

Go to the web site for Baer Brakes and Willwood Brakes. They have lots of information there to explain this a little better. They will tell you that drilling and slotting is strictly for looks, not for function.



rtdkota
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3/30/2004
20:28:04

RE: Powerstop or Powerslot?
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http://www.socaldakota.com/brakes.html


I use the powerslots w/ hawk pads... got nearly 30k on my current set, and at least 75% front pad left. I head cycled these initially-- and have gotten my money's worth out of them-- 2 auto-x events, plus about 50-60 1/4 passes at the track.

Sam
619-274-1292


www.socaldakota.com

00 RT/BC
Dodge Dakota
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3/30/2004
20:38:21

RE: Powerstop or Powerslot?
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And now the lazy link



DSW
Dodge Dakota
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3/31/2004
21:53:33

RE: Powerstop or Powerslot?
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Thanks for the input guys. I bought a set of Raybestos Superstop drilled and slotted rotors with a matching set of Superstop pads. I was undecided between slotted or drilled and decided to go with both. They were $180 ($210 shipped)from rockauto.com with the 5% discount code that ProwlRT (Todd) gave out on the "inner tie rod" thread.

I think the major problem with rotors these days is that they are made from cheap soft metal which lends itself to overheating and warping. These Superstops are made from G3000 metal (whatever that is) that's rated at 30,000 PSI tensil strength. Guess this has to be better than the metal in the cheap rotors from AutoZone/Checker/Pepboys. I guess the other MFG's making drilled and slotted rotors probably use similar metals for their rotors, just decided to try out the Superstops.



chris
Dodge Dakota
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4/01/2004
13:22:20

RE: rotors
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I was wondering about rotors form wholesalepartsdirect.com has any body tried them they sound like a very good quality rotor, they compare to brembo and zimmerman.



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