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13:48:57 - 04/26/2024
Lowered / Slammed Dakotas
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Bryan
Dodge Dakota
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6/13/2003
23:12:03
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 Subject: Air Suspention
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Message:
Do any of you have info. on air suspention drop for a present generation Dakota 4x2?
I want it at 1/2" off the ground when parked and 6-8" or so when lifted.
Any info. is appreciated.
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d_fl8ted1
Dodge Dakota
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6/17/2003
17:16:09
|  RE: Air Suspention
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Message:
well, i am in the same boat as you but i am trying to find out if you have to relocate your fender wells in order to get it to lay the frame on the ground, as for your question, my company has installed many bag kits, the basic bag kit will allow your truck to lay frame with little modifications, with the kit coming with the required brackets to install the bag system, you have to either convert your rear suspension to a four link, ladder bar system or make it a mono leaf system with a two inch block, as far as the lifting of the system goes, most kits have 6-8 inches of travel to give,
i hope that helps
thank you, if you would like a quote on a bag kit contact my on www.pureevilkustoms.com, and i can get you a quote
thank you
d_fl8ted1
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Jeremy
Dodge Dakota
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6/18/2003
22:27:18
|  RE: Air Suspention
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Message:
Only a half inch of the ground? Whats up with that, if your going that low you might as well put it on the ground and put on a light show for tailgaters.....hahaha. But seriously I need to know what wheel size your going to be running. A monoleaf with a two inch block with lay frame with a small wheel combo but with a 20 i kept my lowered shackles and hangers in when I monoleafed it and put in a 4 inch block. The best way is probably to piece together a kit since many of the 995.99 deals have crappy compressors and valves. First you neet to buy a monster notch for the rear at like fbi and get that out of the way. From there decide what you want to do with the rear suspension, cheap mono leaf / rides like crap or expensive, 4 link / way better ride. A mono leaf is cheap cause you don't buy anything, you just take all the support out but the main leaf and let the bags put up the support. You will have to weld axle plates over the axle for this and top plates to a crossmember going from notch to notch. Again in the front with bigger wheels you will need dropped spindles along with bags to bring her down real close to the pavement The top bracket bolts in and the bottom welds. The brackets are purchasable from many stores including....zmotive, aim, and hack shack. They all have online websites. And again I think 6 and 8 inch front and rear lift respectivly will be hard to achieve cause in the front you will have to run double convulted bags probably 2500lbs and they only have about 5 inch adjustability. In the back if you go with a wicked 4link or cantilever it will be no problem to achieve 8 inches of lift or I have seen some people go with a sleeve bag (not as stout for load carrying ability). And in the front I have seen people change and rebuild control arms to get amazing lift. If you crank the air psi up in the back you could probably get it real high but it will ride like complete ass cause the bag will be like a brick with no give. For a compressor pick up a viair. I prefer the 450c cause of the billet heatsink and 100% duty cycle. I never have to wait to let my compressor cool down. Get a nice size tank, maybe 5-7 gallons, more than than and consider two compressors. Extremely important, make sure your line and air fittings are d.o.t. approved or you will have the damnest time making them stop leaking. Don't go cheap here, get brass, their high but worth it in the salty weather. don't get plastic or iron pipe fitting please. Your best bet might be to get air ride's complete air management setup which comes with the compressor, tanks, and valves and all you have to do is supply the bags and brackets. The valves need to be good also, you don't want them freezing up and not working. Make sure they are brass too. Get at least 3/8 valves and line. You will then need a switch box to wire all your vavles back to in order to work them. Depending on what you want, f.b.s.s, you will need 8 valves and 4 two way throw toggle switches. If you get the solenoid valves that can do two motions you will only need 4 valves. You will also need to wire a pressure switch and gauges, and water trap into your tank so make sure it has a bunch of ports, at least 8. your pressure switch needs to come on at least 110 and off by 150 or 160. It will also help to have gauges monitoring each bag in the cab so you can tell how high each corner is. Additional gauges require you to break each corner open again and splice tee's in to monitor pressure. Again more leaks. I used teflons on all my fittings and had to wrap some of them up to three times to get them totally sealed. Spray soap and water on them when you have pressure built up in the system and see if it leaks. If is does rewrap it and do it again. I have seen people use threadlocker but I don't recommend it. My truck can sit up a month and only leak 5 psi. Also make sure your wheel/ tire combo will tuck when fully laid out or you will kill tires, wheels, and fenders. A dakota requires about a +40mm offset to tuck wheel. If your rolling 16's or 17's it probably won't matter unless your bd cause laying frame doesn't tuck the wheel. If you do go big on wheels, when your laid out don't cut the wheel side to side or kiss your fenders good bye again. I hope this gets you out to a better start than I had. I learned it all the hard way. Peace.
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dustin
Dodge Dakota
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6/18/2003
22:38:09
|  RE: Air Suspention
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Message:
Air suspensions are for looks and smoother cadilac driving. but common put it on the ground and drag it at the stop lights and in front of the girls screw the half inch stuff.
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