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andrew
Unregistered
4/01/2001
15:16:51
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 Subject: Synthetic motor oils
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Message:
I have planned on switching to a synthetic motor oil and am wondering which one to buy. I have heard Valvoline, Castrol, Mobil 1, Pennzoil, Quaker State, and Amsoil all make really good synthetics, but which has an advantage over the others? Also, the Mobil 1 drive-clean oils seem like a good idea, has anyone ever tried them? How long can I go before changing my oil with synthetics?
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RonW
Gen III
4/01/2001
16:08:45
| RE: Synthetic motor oils
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Personally, I changed to synthetics at 5K. I use Castrol Syntec 5W-50. They're all about the same except I would probably stay away from Quaker State.
Ron
00 PB SLT QC 4X2 5.9 46RE 3.92 LSD
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Wayne
GenIII
4/01/2001
17:42:28
| RE: Synthetic motor oils
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Message:
Now here is a subject that we could write pages about.
Amsoil, Redline, and Royal Purple seem to be better than the rest but they cost so much more.
I read where Quaker State is now owned by Pennzoil.
Since we don't have severe duty needs in our engines, I tend to stay with the less expensive ones. I find that Valvoline and Mobile 1 have worked for me but wouldn't hesitate to use any of the others.
I didn't extend the drain interval much because synthetics still get dirty.
I am more particular about the weight of the oil. We use 10W30 or 10W40 depending on which engine ( we have 7). The wider the gap between the number before the W and the number after the W, the more modifiers are in the oil which means you have less lubricant so we try to keep that margin down. I wish I could get a 20w40 for the 2 engines that go over 6000 rpm. In Louisiana we don't need a 0W or 5W anything because it don't get cold enough to warrant them. In all 3 of our Dakotas, we use 10W30 because we don't push them over 5000 rpm.
I hope this helps and as always, others are welcome to tell me where I am wrong.
Wayne Van Metre
'99 CC SLT 5.2/auto/3.90 anti spin
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Mar
GenI
4/01/2001
18:51:26
| RE: Synthetic motor oils
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Message:
I have drag raced camaros and firebirds and hoped that a high quality oil like amsoil would help. But all it did was burn in the engine. When we pulled the dipstick the bottom was just caked on. Now in your car its not going to burn but what i found to be the best so far is castrol syntech.
MaRty
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Bernd
GenIII
4/02/2001
10:51:28
| RE: Synthetic motor oils
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Message:
Something interesting on Castrol Syntec:
"1. Synthetic Base Stocks. Group IV base stock is made of PAO and was for a while the only base used in synthetic oil until Group V (Esters) came along. PAO has a property of shrinking rubber gaskets, and when older cars were switched the leaking was generally due to this fact. Cars with new gaskets that used PAO-based oils from the beginning did not encounter shrinkage or leakage. The newer and the better synthetic oils began to incorporate a new base stock (group V -Esters) that helped to keep the rubber from shrinking. True synthetics are generally Group IV (PAO) mixed with Group V (Ester) base stocks, like Mobil 1, Valvoline Syn Power, and Amsoil. Mobil began using straight PAO, but switched to a very good blend of the two. Their additive package seems to be among the best. [Email from Mobil Products: 1. Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic is a blend of alkylated naphthalene (Group V), PAO (Group IV) and ester (Group V). The alkylated naphthalene is for improved deposit control. The Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 15W-50 is A3/B3-B4-98 approved. Mobil Delvac 1 is B4-98, E5-99, SJ and CH-4 approved. Mobil Delvac 1 is a proprietary blend of synthetic base stocks formulated for optimal performance in diesel and gasoline engines.] [Comment from Geoff William: The first component (alkylated naphthalene) has the advantage over PAO and esters in that it has the best additive solubility and the best seal compatibility of the 5 most common engine lubricants (PAO, esters (2 types) and mineral oil).
This is great news for older cars, with brittle seals that might be more suceptible to shinking with a PAO and ester-only based synthetic motor oil.] Castrol does not produce a true synthetic motor oil. Castrol Syntec used to be a GIV base but it was switched in the early 90's to the much cheaper GII base. Technically it is a hydrocracked petro-based oil. If you want a synthetic do not spend the money on Castrol Syntec, you are much better off using Mobil 1 (the best oil for your money). Penzoil uses the same base stock as Syntec in their regular "cheap" oil. "Pure-base" is a what they call the Group II base. Group II and III are nearly as good as synthetic based oils but cost almost the same as conventional oils to manufacture. On the plus side Syntec does use one of the best anti-wear additives, Moly-DiSufide. BUT they are ripping you off charging as much as they do. "
Bernd D. Ratsch
1997 Dodge Dakota SLT
Supercharged w/Nitrous
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CyberWolf
GenIII
4/02/2001
13:19:26
| RE: Synthetic motor oils
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Message:
So which do you use Bernd?
'01 4.7 CC, 5 speed, Sport , 3.92 limited slip, Intense
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Bernd
GenIII
4/02/2001
14:03:27
| RE: Synthetic motor oils
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Message:
I used to run Castrol 10w40 (Dino Oil) up until the 20K mile mark. Then I switched to Mobil-1 and 6 months ago I switched to Redline SAE30 (10w30) in the Winter and Redline SAE50 (15w50) in the Summer. (Lot's of meets at the track and the 100+ weather is hell on the oil at the track.)
Also use Redline MTL in the tranmission and Redline 75W90 in the differential (not the 75W90NS fluid).
Shifts smoother, runs slightly faster, and runs about 5 degrees cooler (Yes, I checked with my OBD-II Scanner...it's 5 degrees).
Bernd D. Ratsch
1997 Dodge Dakota SLT
Supercharged w/Nitrous
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andrew
Unregistered
4/02/2001
22:08:59
| RE: Synthetic motor oils
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Message:
Damn bernd, your the man! I have a question for you about that last response to my post. You say you run Redline SAE 30 in the winter and SAE50 in the summer but then you have 10w30 and 15w50 after that, what do you mean? I didnt think 10w30 was the same as SAE30, is it? Also, do you think those weights would work very good in my 93 4x4 Dakota w/318 and almost 103,000mi?
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Bernd
GenIII
4/03/2001
01:28:21
| RE: Synthetic motor oils
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Message:
The SAE30 and SAE50 are the Redline Racing Oil products. (SAE30 is the equivalent to 10w30 and the SAE50 is the equivalent to 15w50 oil in the Redline Racing product line.) They have their regular 0W10, 5W20, 10W30, 15W40, 20W50 oils for regular use.
As for the Winter/Summer oil changes...I switch to a "thinner" oil in the winter for easier starts and a "thicker" oil in the summer due to the heat and race events.
On your Dak, i'd suggest the 15w40 (Regular) Redline Oil.
Bernd D. Ratsch
1997 Dodge Dakota SLT
Supercharged w/Nitrous
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andrew
Unregistered
4/05/2001
22:33:35
| RE: Synthetic motor oils
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Message:
Thanks everyone. I just changed my oil and was reluctant to put Mobil 1 in because I "THOUGHT" I was losing oil, but I was mistaken. Went for the Valvoline ALL FLEET 15W40. If my truck doesnt eat anymore oil than usuall, I'll go with the full synthetic next time. Thanks!!
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Wayne
GenIII
4/06/2001
20:28:00
| RE: Synthetic motor oils
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Message:
Mar, Why is the oil burning in your Camaro/Firebird? I have a "99, had a '94, and a'89. I use synthetic only and have had no trouble. That is what they are good for - high temp. That is why Chev puts synthetic in Corvettes from the factory. I would like to get more info on this..???
Wayne Van Metre
'99 CC SLT 5.2/auto/3.90 anti spin
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James E.
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
1/13/2004
16:57:55
| Synthetic motor oils
IP: Logged
Message:
Hi,
I need help, please. I have a 1996 Plymouth Voyager with 2.4L 4 cyl engine. The milage is approximately 131K miles. I'd like to use Synthetic Oil, but I don't know much about it.
I live in Ontario Canada, where the temp sometimes drop to -18F. Do I use Synthetic 5W-50 or 5W-30? Please help me...ASAP
Thank you
James
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