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karen
Dodge Dakota
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9/26/2012
11:57:39

Subject: RE: 3.9L engine stalling
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but you got to do the pump to and its running fine,i had a check engine light and it said vapor lock and parts guy didnt know what that could be so he reset it and this happened a week later.



daddio
Dodge Dakota
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9/26/2012
13:15:14

RE: 3.9L engine stalling
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Karen, exactly what was the code you got? I have never seen one that calls out "vapor lock" as these trucks won't vapor lock. Check the code by turning the key as follows:

Turn key to on/off/on/off/on and the codes will display in the odometer as Pxxxx and when it's finished or there are no codes it will display Pdone.

I've got an '00 with about 160k on it, never had to change the fuel filter and I buy gas where it is the cheapest. Never cleaned the injectors either. You may want to check the fuel pressure while its running and make sure it is wiithin spec. I've seen post where people have that problem when they get below a half tank of fuel. When it's full they run fine.



Fred
Dodge Dakota
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9/26/2012
13:57:52

RE: 3.9L engine stalling
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Daddio: You never changed your fuel filter? I change mine ever few years. black particles come out of it.



Laura
Dodge Dakota
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9/26/2012
14:29:40

RE: 3.9L engine stalling
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Hello Karen, I have not
had to replace my fuel
filter.My problems r
from my Pam. The
harness that goes to the
Pam simulates what my
truck does as I'am
driving. If I wiggle the
harness closest to the
windshield,It will die on
me. I'am still working
on that issue. Thought I
had it figured out a
couple times. But she
stills dies on me & will
restart on her own. I
don't touch the ignition
when she dies and she
just starts right back up.



Laura
Dodge Dakota
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9/26/2012
14:39:47

RE: 3.9L engine stalling
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I apologize for the misspelled
words. It is the pcm,Not Pam.



Karen
Dodge Dakota
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9/26/2012
18:19:15

RE: 3.9L engine stalling
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hey diddo.the guy at the parts store ran a diag on it and it showed a vapor lock/leak.so he cleared it and said wait till it did it again,then a week later the same thing.no gas leaks,same issues,he suggest the gas cap replacement.



daddio
Dodge Dakota
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9/28/2012
13:24:48

RE: 3.9L engine stalling
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No Fred, never changed it. Still runs like new and still gets up to 24MPG on the hwy.

Karen, what code is it? Get the number that came up when he checked the codes.



michele
Dodge Dakota
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11/13/2012
13:06:36

RE: 3.9L engine stalling
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My son's 98 dodge dakota runs good but at times stalls out. We've changed everything we can think of. Do you have to put it on a machine to get the codes.



Pat
Dodge Dakota
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12/29/2012
19:10:33

98 Dodge Dakota Idle too high
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I have a 98 Dodge Dakota truck. I did a complete tune-up. Replaced the Idle control sensor and another sensor in the same area. Still no good. The truck is idled at 2000mph sitting still. As soon as I start it up the hand goes to the 2 for idle position. If I put it in gear it jerks real hard. When I get to a light I almost have to stand up on the brakes to keep it still. I dont know what else to do. This Asian guy told me the hot wire to the idle control was burnt out that's why it couldnt be adjusted down. However, he didnt want to show me the wire. He said he could fix it for $750. I know it cant be that costly. It's the wires that go to the sensor I suppose. I see alot of post about a pcm. What is that and what about the wiring? Any suggestions? I think he was just trying to get paid because I was a female.



Laura
Dodge Dakota
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12/29/2012
19:40:55

RE: 3.9L engine stalling
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Pat, the hot wire to the idle air control valve is on the back of
the throttle body.If U take the air cleaner off,U will have to
climb up in the engine compartment to get to the valve.Once U
have the cleaner off,U can feel between the throttle body & the
back of the engine going towards the windshield. There will be
two wires coming out of the I.A.C.V. Fell if they feel stick or
broke. If they do, then the guy is right. Your wire is burned
inside/ fried.





joekeen
Dodge Dakota
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5/19/2013
22:21:06

RE: 3.9L engine stalling
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Ive got a 92 dakota 3.9 weve tried everything we can think initially had a few plug wires mixed up when i got it. then found it had 4 bent push rods we replaced them it runs about the same may be a little better replaced the distributer the rotor button then i got the engine code and it said map sensor error 13 replaced that and same issue replaced the cap and ha to pull out the distributer because i broke the cap bolt in it and my dad unhooked the vacum lines when doing it. now it runs for a second then the engine light comes on and it putters out and stalls and while in gear it wont idle have to keep gas on it or it dies the new code its showing is the egr valve code 32 but its still shoing map code 13 i need something showing me where all the vacum lines are supposed to go to because i think he unhooked them and put them back wrong.



Laura Brown
Dodge Dakota
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5/20/2013
00:03:46

RE: 3.9L engine stalling
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Your truck sounds like a " basket case". I don't know where U would find the vacuum diagrams for your truck. I finally had to replace my pcm & have not had any trouble with her since. But she would just randomly die on me when I was driving her.Maybe Google the vacuum diagrams. U came to the right place for advice. These people on here can give U good advice.



Buzz Murdock
Dodge Dakota
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12/24/2014
17:57:02

RE: 3.9L engine stalling
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Having the same prob with my 96 Ram2500 van with
3.9 engine. I have replaced Fuel Pump/filter,
PCM, Idle Air Control Valve, Canister Control
Valve, Etc.

Engine dies, usually when stopping or turning.
Cranks immediately.

Sometimes, while running, engine sputters then
backfires then dies. Have to wait a minute to
recrank. If won't recrank, wiggle wire bundle on
front of engine going over to passenger side.
Starts immediately.

However, reverse is not true. With engine
running, can't kill it by wiggling these same
wires.

Just glad to know I'm not only one with this prob.

Life is good.

Buzz



J.
Dodge Dakota
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5/10/2015
06:33:45

RE: 3.9L engine stalling
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Sounds very familiar. I have an ’02 Dakota that stalls when and where it wants to. It has been plaguing me for a couple years now. The last time it did this we thought maybe venting the gas cap fixed it, since it went away for a while and when it did it again, I just vented the tank and it was fine for 300 miles or so. The first time the code for vacuum leak large popped up and we found the hose going to the vacuum canister under the bed, behind the driver’s side door was cracked. We replace that and it was good all summer. Then it set for a couple months and the problem came back, but with no codes. Now, nothing seems to fix it. So we are going to check for fire when it stalls next time to rule out fuel delivery problem. I believe the fuel rail pressure may be low, but I am not sure what it is supposed to be.
The first time we had a problem with starting was after it had been sitting for a year due to transmission failure. That time it would start, but it spit, sputtered, backfired and did not have enough power to move a few feet. This ended up being the crankshaft position sensor that is mounted where the transmission mates to the engine on the passenger side at the top. If you disconnect it; the connector can be ohmed and compared to a new one without removing it.
The current problem manifestation turned a 3 hour trip into a 12 hour one, since it would not restart for about a half hour each time it stalled. I had planned to tow it home, but it ran just long enough for me to get out of the city where I was going to rent a tow dolly. Oh, and this model only has a fuel filter in the tank, not your average inline type filter. But, if it is not a intermittent firing problem, I suspect it is the fuel pump.

Thanks for all the troubleshooting info and good luck.




Laura Brown
Dodge Dakota
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5/10/2015
12:06:16

RE: 3.9L engine stalling
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Good morning J, My 98 Dakota 4x4 would just stall going down
the road & sometimes it would start right back up. Other times it
wouldn't do anything for about 10 or 15 minutes. I did alot of
research on this issue. Then one day my co worker & I were
trying to figure out what the heck was going on. So I started the
truck & he was wiggling the wires going to the PCM. It staleed
on us. So I started it again, He wiggled the one wire bundle
going into the firewall & sure enough it died on it's own.So we
tried to clean the wire bundle & the terminals. But it would still
die on me. So I ordered a remanded PCM from this place in
Florida.If I remember right, It was like $125.00 verses $500.00
from Dodge, And that does not include labor. So I received the
PCM. Unscrewed the old one & put the new one on & the truck
runs like new. Just "Google" the location of your PCM.



Lou
Dodge Dakota
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5/29/2015
11:42:25

RE: 3.9L engine stalling
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Hi I have a 1998 dodge Dakota sport. It just randomly dies on
me after like 20 to 30 min of driving when I slow down or at a
light. Not to mention a slight miss every now n then.. I changed
everything: battery/ terminals/ full tune up, distributor pick up/
idle control valve/ TPS/ fuel pump/crank sensor...even cleaned
out the throttle body n cleaned out the connections to to
pmc..and nothing it still stalls out randomly...I need help n an
accurate answer I'm at a loss here ... Plz help



Tony
Dodge Dakota
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5/03/2016
13:12:34

RE: 3.9L engine stalling
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Hello all. I have a 1995 Dodge Dakota. Has 185K miles. Truck has always ran great. Recently, I can drive it for a period of time, and the struck just dies. It usually takes at least an hour or so before it starts back up. Then will run perfect until same thing happens. My mechanic cannot figure it out. I have replaced the coil, dist. cap and rotor, crank sensor, ignition pick up and idle control valve. Fuel pump is working well. Just no spark at all. Then all of a sudden, starts up and runs fine until it does again. I am at a loss on where to go with this now? Any ideas would help. Thanks



Fred Peterson
Dodge Dakota
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12/07/2016
18:40:28

RE: 3.9L engine stalling
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I have a 1996 Dakota 3.9 with 258000 miles and
still all original internal components. I have had
misfiring issues, trans shift issues, ghost radio
issue, horn issues headlight issues, gauge issues.
I have been chasing these problems for years on my
truck. After replacing many sensors with no
resolution I found a couple of simple things to
check yourself.

First to address the problem of dying when coming
to a stop:
This will most likely be the IAC positioning to
maintain the idle while stopped, in gear or not,
with AC on or off. The IAC adjusts for the load on
the engine. Simply remove the 2 torx 20 screws and
clean the tip of the IAC with carb cleaner and
wire brush. Then clean inside the hole with carb
cleaner and a rag using a screwdriver to turn the
rag and clean the seat for the IAC. Also on my
intake on the passenger side I found a vacuum
nipple with a hose not connected to anything and
the vacuum diagram showed it plugged. This will
affect the idle if you have a vacuum leak as the
IAC will not position properly due to the leak.

OK next for the issue of random dying, no codes
and a variety of sensors being pointed at:
Think about this; every sensor has to have power
and ground to work properly. Many sensors have a
third wire which sends a signal to the computer to
control the engine. If you have a ground problem
you will have a never ending variety of codes that
will point to a sensor or the signal of that
sensor not being correct and you may or may not
set a code depending on the ground path at that
time.

No cost solution: Look around the engine
compartment starting at the batt; follow the
ground wire to the block and remove the
connection; clean with a wire brush the block and
ring terminal on both sides till it is shiny; then
clean the bolt before you put back in place and
tighten, Also you will find several smaller ground
wire connections in the engine compartment; remove
each of these and do the same. Take note that
under the terminal connection on the fender,
firewall and other locations the paint has not
been removed. The only way the wire connects to
ground is by the threads made by the screw holding
the wire terminal in place. Removing the paint
with some 40 grit sandpaper or other similar
method will further improve the ground connection.
Use a small amount of wheel bearing grease on the
connections to prevent moisture and corrosion from
developing in the future.

After you have done these two things you may want
to disconnect the batt negative terminal and clean
the connection there, this should clear any codes
and you will be starting out with a clean slate no
codes. Go to your local parts store and have the
codes read to make sure. Now any codes that set
should be more accurate.

Remember if you don't have a good ground, you
don't have a good electrical circuit.
Good luck to all, I hope this will help solve some
of the problems shared by so many.
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Laura Brown
Dodge Dakota
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12/07/2016
19:03:29

RE: 3.9L engine stalling
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Check out the wire bundles going to your PCM on the drivers
side fire wall. Start the truck and go wiggle those 3 hundles of
wire. One bundle at a time. If the truck dies, U have a bad
PCM.There is a place in Florida that remans them. Just make
sure they have your right vin number. Or U will get the wrong
PCM. I went thru that problem with 3 of the PCM'S. The guy
finally figured out they had written the wrong number down for
my vin.I never had anymore trouble with that truck after that. It
ran like a new truck. I don't know why Dodge put a sensitive
component in the engine compartment.All other car
manufacturers have the PCM in the cabin.



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