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Josh
Dodge Dakota
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9/06/2001
15:06:41

Subject: Lowering Question
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I have a 2000 r/c V8 and recently installed a 4/6 Western Chassis drop and I'm a but uncomfortable with the ride.

It looks awesome but rides like schit.

I have lowered coils, lowered A arms, and lowered shocks up front and the shackle mounts, spring hangers and shocks in the rear.

I'm considering removing the front coil springs and bringing the front end back up a little, and then removing the front hangers to bring the rear back up to salvage the ride quality and towing capacity.

Two questions:

Would I keep using the lowered shocks?

Would the ride quality come back?



Brian Gaarder
Dodge Dakota


9/06/2001
17:44:04

RE: Lowering Question
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Why does it ride like crap ?



Josh
Dodge Dakota
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9/07/2001
00:08:00

RE: Lowering Question
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I think the front springs are stiffer and there is less suspension travel in the rear and it hits the rubber bumpstops on the frame to the top of the axle.



Big O
Dodge Dakota
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9/07/2001
01:55:04

RE: Lowering Question
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You can get shorter bumbstops. That would help out the rear.



kota on 20s
Dodge Dakota
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9/07/2001
02:36:56

RE: Lowering Question
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i have the same 4/6 kit on my 98 CC v8. mine rides like stock, except my 35 series tire firms it up a little.

you dropped the rear 6" without a c-notch? you REALLY need the notch. that can be your problem.
also what shocks are you running? doshtec?

ERic



Josh
Dodge Dakota
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9/07/2001
08:51:52

RE: Lowering Question
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Yeah I have the doetsch tech shocks.

I thought about the C notch and trimming the rear bumpstops, but I'm afraid my tires will rub the rear fender. Truck came stock with 235/75R15. Its a 2wd V8. I was surprised to see those tires on this truck.





kota on 20s
Dodge Dakota
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9/07/2001
11:53:17

RE: Lowering Question
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well i have the same shocks as you, so its not them. if you have'nt c-notched it i would say that is your problem. also why dont you just get differant tires? i didnt think the stocks would fit on a 4/6

Eric



Josh
Dodge Dakota
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9/07/2001
14:49:50

RE: Lowering Question
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New wheels/tires are budgeted for next spring.

I have shorter Blizzak snow tires for the winter, so I wanna see how that diameter looks on the lowered truck.

There isn't much room for the factory tires, but I have 15x7 rims with 235/75R15 skinny tires. The rim does slightly rub on the upper ball joint at full lock to the left. I'll live with it until I get new rims/tires.

I think I will try notching it. I wanted to avoid cutting the frame (resale wise) but I may do it anyway.



LOKU
Dodge Dakota
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9/07/2001
20:33:19

RE: Lowering Question
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Josh,

With your slammed drop, I think you'll want to seriously think about smaller diameter tires. When I dropped my '95 down that far I noticed a couple things.

1. If you really dropped the rear end 6", your axle IS riding on the bump stops as mine was. I suggest first getting a new set of tires and or rims. By going with a rear tire that is 1" smaller in overall diameter, you'll gain the extra room you'll need to put in that c-notch. Sure your speedometer will be seem a few mph high, and you'll think you'll be getting better gas mileage because the miles are being put on faster, but it's worth the effort to be able to drive comfortably. Don't worry about the resale value, if the c-notch is installed professionally and correctly, it's worth more to those who might buy an already dropped vehicle.

2. When the front end gets dropped 4", again your suspension is near or at the level of riding on the bump stops. Shave the bump stop on the lower control arm to just below half of what it is now. This will give you some extra room to move. Don't shave off the whole bump stop though, or the cross member on the frame might be kissing the pavement occasionally. The dropped coils are usually stiffer than factory ones, however this should only make the ride firm, not bouncy like the bump stops will. You've probably already noticed your improved cornering ability with the drop.

If you want to keep the rims you have, I would go with a 225/60/R15. This will keep the front tire from rubbing the ball joint as well. If you got the dough, step up to a larger size rim. I went with 215/45/ZR17 in front, and 245/45/ZR17 in the rear. This allows me the widest tires while still be able to tuck them. Or if you want to step up to 18" rims, just take them down to a 40 series.

Finally, if you do decide to raise it back up a couple inches, your ride quality will come back because you won't be on the bump stops any more. As for keeping the shocks on, that's a definate yes in the rear, but a toss up in front. Typically, if you only lower a vehicle 2" or less, you don't need to replace the shocks with shorter ones. I would put a factory shock by one of the DT's and compare they're stroke lengths compressed and uncompressed. Then just use your judgement. Or just call the place you bought the drop kit from and ask them... unless it's AIM of course.



Josh
Dodge Dakota
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9/10/2001
08:45:26

RE: Lowering Question
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Wow,

Thanks for all the usefull info. I think LOKU and Kotaon20's have me talked into installing a C-Notch and slighly shorter diameter tires.

Its not the tire rubbing one the upper balljoint, its the wheel. I think I'll be buying 17s in the early spring.




Kotadude21
Dodge Dakota
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10/09/2003
15:32:05

RE: Lowering Question
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what kind of shops install c-notches? I have the notches, just need to have the frame cut and welded in. I need some suggestions... I'm gonna look in the phone book also.

Thanks,
Brent



Ryan H.
Dodge Dakota
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10/09/2003
16:36:28

RE: Lowering Question
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I"m about 3" lower than stock in my r/t and I need a c-notch cause I want a more comfortable ride. I don't know how you managed 6 in a reg dak without jarring some teeth loose.

Ryan H.




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