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Mudlizard
Dodge Dakota
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3/27/2004
21:45:11
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 Subject: Harland Sharp Install
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Got my 1.7's on today. Sweet install. Biggest pain in the left testicle is getting around the wire bundles and fighting with the miselaneous plastic crap the Mopar attaches to the engine. Let me pass on some info about the install. I know a few of ya are waiting for yours to come in the mail. Here is the skinny on how to do the install. First off, you need an 11mm deep well, to get the valve covers off. Next you need a 1/2" socket to get the bolts out for the stock rocker assy. (Unlike a Chevy product with a nut on an adjustable stud, Dodge uses a bolt thru the rocker, which I didnt know for sure till I got the valve cover off). Dont freak out like I did when you see the stock setup. I didnt expect to see pushrod guide plates in there. Pull the pair of 1/2" bolts out (intake/exhaust). The stock rockers come out as a complete assembly all at once. Pretty nice. Just dont let one of the pushrods stick to the rockers, I almost lost one in the engine. Only had about 1" to grab onto to retrieve it. That was a close one.
To install the new ones, I had an oil can with some fresh oil and lubed the moving parts as I went along. Take the set of new rockers with the bolts and (that other round piece the kit comes with and position the big end against the head). I bolted a pair in at a time, (intake/exhaust). Definately going to need a 1/4" allen stock that you attach to a rachet, this will fit the new mount bolts. TAKE YOUR TIME and only turn each bolt about a half turn at a time alternating between the two. This should keep them from twisting up. You will see what I mean as you do this. Once you feel it bottom out, torque to 20-21 ftlbs. THAT IS NOT ALOT OF TORQUE!! So be careful not to over torque, it can happen real easy.
After I got both sides done and all put back together, I cranked the engine over with the coil wire removed. I wanted to make sure nothing was going to lock up, bind or sounded funny. Once I was sure, I hooked up the coil and fired it up. What a relief to hear it run nice and silent with no rocker clatter.
I installed a new set of Mopar Magnum black wrinkle valve covers with my install. I figure it took me a good 5hrs to complete. Thats taking my time to do the job right. Like I say, the worst part of it is fighting the wirebundles and stuff in the way. Other than that, it was a very very easy job to install. I have to drive the truck tomorrow, get them all broke in properly and let the computer re-learn before I can romp on it a bit.
Just wanted to throw some additional info out there for anyone getting ready to do theirs. ENJOY!!
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Nick
Dodge Dakota
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3/27/2004
22:06:10
| RE: Harland Sharp Install
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Ive had my rockers in for 96 miles. Theres a reason people are saying to give them a 200 mile break in period before you jump on it a lot. This was my first internal engine mod, and I was scared to overtighten. Case being, I undertightened. Mudlizard, you are right, definatly use a torque wrench to make sure you have them all down to the proper specs. I had mine in for a day and after 25 miles, I started to hear a little clicking. Went home right away, and sure enough the rocker for cylinder #8 was loose. Things that would be helpful if I did it again would be the proper torque wrench adapter for an allen head and possibly some loctite. Also, before you install them be sure to inspect them for small loose aluminum shavings. To anyone who's got them ordered or is installing them, they are a great product, and you'll notice a nice increase in power about 40 MPH and up. Anyway good luck guys, and thanks to the guys responsable for the group buy for a great deal.
-Nick
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Mudlizard
Dodge Dakota
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3/28/2004
10:06:15
| RE: Harland Sharp Install
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Just logged 50mi on mine so far. I only stepped on it once for about 2 seconds just to get a feel. Yep, serious improvement. I agree with Nick....great modification for the money and easy as pie to install. Dont be shy, step up to some RR's.
I was going to use some locktite but didnt because I didnt know if it would do its job mixed with some oil. I hope the proper torqued bolts does the trick.
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wtdash
GenIII
3/28/2004
12:12:15
| RE: Harland Sharp Install
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Put my 1.7's in about a month ago. I got my instructions from John @ southeastrt.com. The only difference in MudLizard's instructions that he gave was, 1) Don't worry about the Locktite (not needed), just use the torque wrench 2) he said "You can run it tonite!", so no break-in needed.
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samtheman
Dodge Dakota
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3/28/2004
12:15:38
| RE: Harland Sharp Install
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I know this is a dumb question but do you still have to have each piston at top dead center? I know you don't have to adjust the HSs. Also, did the magnum have roller rockers? I've read that they have, just that they are 1:1.6 and not made to exact tolerances so that every cylinder may be operating a little different.
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SinCity R/T
Dodge Dakota
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3/28/2004
14:18:52
| RE: Harland Sharp Install
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>>> I know this is a dumb question but do you still have to have each piston at top dead center? I know you don't have to adjust the HSs. Also, did the magnum have roller rockers? I've read that they have, just that they are 1:1.6 and not made to exact tolerances so that every cylinder may be operating a little different. <<<
The HS's do not require TDC - just install as-is.
The factory 1.6 rockers are stamped not roller.
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00R/T CC
Dodge Dakota
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3/28/2004
17:29:08
| RE: Harland Sharp Install
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samtheman: Maybe you heard that the magnums have roller camshaft (true).
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Nick
Dodge Dakota
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3/29/2004
16:50:40
| RE: Harland Sharp Install
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Have you guys with the 1.7's noticed a different idle than before? I seemed to have a smoother idle with the stock rockers, maybe its just me... im paranoid about my truck. Thanks,
-Nick
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Mudlizard
Dodge Dakota
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3/30/2004
17:09:08
| RE: Harland Sharp Install
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Mine is running just great. No difference in the idle for me.
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73duster
Dodge Dakota
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3/31/2004
12:01:26
| RE: Harland Sharp Install
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harland rockers are known for not being the exact ratio they state. they are under 1.7 or 1.6 if they are 1.6s.
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