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count_snevaj
Dodge Dakota
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1/08/2004
19:48:39

Subject: Bleeding the clutch???
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I have a 98 2.5L dakota, recently the little nipple that is on the clutch slave cylinder got broken. I found a replacement at a salvage yard, but can't figure out how to bleed the clutch.

Any info would be greatly appreciated



TexasTodd
Dodge Dakota
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1/09/2004
16:42:24

RE: Bleeding the clutch???
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count dracula,

It takes two people, unless you got an expensive little machine that does it for you.

I guess you replaced the nipple.

1.fill resevoir
2.have someone under truck open the nipple some, a 1/4 turn usually.
3.person in truck pushes clutch to floor, and HOLDS it there.
4.under truck person closes nipple.
5.intruck person lets pedal up
6.repeat steps #2-5, until only foluid comes out of nipple.

You usually have to fill resevoir some while doing it. It helps to put a small tube on the end of the niple, and catch the fluid coming out, so you can use it again, instead of wasting the stuff on the floor-not good for the environment.

Good luck, e-mail me with any other questions.

Todd



count_snevaj
Dodge Dakota
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1/09/2004
19:48:22

RE: Bleeding the clutch???
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Thanx Todd, I was trying that same sorta thing today in the snow by myself. Gonna see if I can get someone to help me tomorrow since it was kinda hard trying that alone. I figured there is a way, but a Dodge mechanic told me there was no way and that I had to buy the whole assembly already bled from them for around $250. They will tell you anything to get you to pay them money. Again, Thanx and will post results tomorrow.


James



ron ferguson
Dodge Dakota
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8/07/2005
13:17:54

RE: Bleeding the clutch???
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this is how i bleed my clutch i just changed the cluth on my 98 dakota. 3.9 before the clutch went out the clutch pedal would not disengage the clutch. i thought that my pressure plate was bad. when i took it apart it was fine. i replaced it anyhow. when it was back together the pedal still would not disengage the clutch.
so i removed the resivior, clutch master cylender, and slave cylender as one entire unit. i removed the pistons from the master and slave cylenders. cleaned them. they are easy to dissassemble there are only 2 snap rings that keep them together. i placed them in a vice side by side once dissassembled. mind you that the system is entact as far as the hoses and lines go only the pistions are removed. i poured brake fluid into the slave cylender until it filled both the slave and master cylender. once the slave cylender was completely full. i installed the slave cylender piston. make sure to push the piston to the bottom of the cylender. this should fill or over fill the master cylender, this if fine. just make sure the slave cylender piston is all the way down so the fluid has somewhere to go when you install the master cylender piston. no install the master cylender piston. and snapring. when you install the piston and push it down the slave cylender piston should push out to the end of the housing. make sure that your res. is full the entire time you do this and make sure that there isn't any air in the line going to the mastercylender. this worked for me on the first try. and i had been messing with it for a couple of day. clutch works great. doesn't bleed off or anything. just like it's soposto be. better than goig to dodge and getting a new one for 250 hope this helps.



Pacrat
Dodge Dakota
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8/07/2005
22:08:56

RE: Bleeding the clutch???
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I use a hand operated vacum pump to bleed the clutch on my '34 Ford. It is called a "Mityvac". It works great on brakes also. Got it at a auto parts store about 40 years ago. I see JC Whitney has it listed under brake tools.



WyomingPurple
Dodge Dakota
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8/09/2005
13:38:28

RE: Bleeding the clutch???
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I know a 99-cent trick for this! You can replace the second person with 12 inches of clear vinyl tubing, a pin, and a BB. Get the right size tubing to fit snugly over the nipple. Get a BB or other round ball that can move freely inside the tubing. Stick a pin thru the tubing so the BB will have just a little play (like an eighth of an inch) between the pin and the nipple. It will act as a one way valve. Open the nipple, and put the homebrew valve on it. When you push down, the fluid will flow around the BB and out the hose. When you let up, the BB will get sucked up tight against the nipple and stop fluid and air from being sucked back into the system. Just make sure the BB is big enough so it won't get sucked in, and small enough for fluid to flow around it. I used to use this on an old VW I had, had to bleed the brakes every couple months.



peapatch
Dodge Dakota
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2/22/2011
03:50:47

RE: Bleeding the clutch???
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I have a 98 Dakota 2 wheel drive I keep getting air in it but can't find any way to bleed it the lines are made into it and it has na nipple at all any help I would be most thankful for I just don't know what to do
ps Could it be a bad slave as I just put a new not rebuilt on it
thanks



Dan00Dak
Dodge Dakota
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2/22/2011
12:13:39

RE: Bleeding the clutch???
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There are no provisions to bleed the hydraulic
clutch in a Dakota. The whole assembly needs to be
replaced.

Been there, done that.



peapatch
Dodge Dakota
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2/22/2011
13:17:24

RE: Bleeding the clutch???
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kinda thought that thanks



kidshelp909
Dodge Dakota
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4/16/2013
17:25:52

RE: Bleeding the clutch on a Dodge Dakota
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TO BLEED A CLUTCH ON A DODGE DALOTA.
Some people will tell you this can not be done and you have to buy it complete from the factory. THIS IS BULL. Go on line to Auto Zone, they have a slave cylinder that has a bleed screw #10673 or #360084 Made by Duralast. Hook up the fluid lines BUT DON NOT INSTALL IT. It will still not work. The reason is your master clutch cylinder is sitting on the wrong angle and you will still have air in the cylinder. OK I have a 99 Dodge Dakota 5 speed. and this was a little work but it is totally worth it. Hook up the new slave cylinder to the fluid line. Then get yourself a 2 fork wheel puller. Bolt it to the slave cylinder once you remove the piston and the 2 plastic cup holders that keep the cup over the end of the rod. Put them to the side. Attach the puller with 1/4" inch screws and leave the center screw pushed up against the slave cylinder plunger about 1 or 2 turns in is fine. Then set it to the side. NOW the harder part. You have to remove the clutch master cylinder off the firewall. This is the only way to remove the air from it. I had to remove my brake booster to get to it. Once you take the clutch rod off and the 2 nuts from under the dash, the cylinder with come out. You only have to pull it out enough to change the angle so the fluid hoses are higher then the rod that goes to the clutch pedel. Make sure you have fluid in the resavore and you will see air bubbles come out. NOW go down below and bleed fluid out of the slave until you see no more air come out. Making sure your resorvore never goes dry. OK now that you have your slave full of fluid. Remove the center puller screw and insert a rod of any type as long as it is not sharpe into the center hole. Now puch it in about 5 or 6 times slow. You will see air bubbles in your resorvor. Once the bubbles stop your done. NOW here is a way to test it and this is why you use the puller. OK put the center screw back in the puller and once you feel the plunger turn it 1 or 2 turns inward. now try to push the rod in on the clutch master cylinder. If it does not move then you did it all correct. Install the master cylinder and while the puller is still connected to the slave cylinder you should not be able to push in on the clutch peddle. If this is correct, then remove the puller, install the slave cylinder and make sure all nuts and wires are tight and connected and there you have it. Make sure you install the push rod, rubber dust cup and the 2 plastics that goes in the screw holes on your new slave. They will break off the first time you push on the peddle. NOTE:::::: DO NOT PUSH ON THE PEDDLE UNTIL THE SLAVE IS COMPLETED INSTALLED. Your clutch has just been bled and it should work great. Good Luck



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