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ryan
Dodge Dakota
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6/29/2008
04:23:14
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 Subject: RE: The A/F system check
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thanks for the info, I am going to be changing my plugs today as long as it isnt raining. I am going to take pictures of them so one of you old mechanics can read them and give me some ideas. The last time i changed plugs i used the NGK FR4, this time I went back to the autolite3923's to see if the 1 heat range colder will do anything.
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ryan
Dodge Dakota
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6/29/2008
13:45:03
| RE: The A/F system check
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Update, I just changed the plugs back to autolite3923's gapped at .040. I also changed my oil and topped off fluids etc. The knock is STILL there. The exact same way as I described before. I didnt take pics of the old plugs because it seemed like a waste of time, but they were pretty much perfect... a nice sandy color with no burned spots or anything. Now I'm really at a loss because the plugs are perfect.
Anyone have any ideas? I dont really have the money to buy a diagnostic tool.
These are my mods so far:
Dynomax 3" superturbo catback
AIRAID CAI
Autolite 3923's
Summit Voltmax Extreme cap, rotor, and wires
Hughes Engines Stage One Intake Manifold
V8 Throttle Body
Another thing I have noticed is that in warm weather my truck really seems to lack power and lag, however if the air is cool and crisp my truck has alot more energy and SCREAMS, it really seems that my mods have been worth something when it's like that. but why such poor performance when it's warm out?
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yeti
Dodge Dakota
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6/29/2008
19:02:48
| RE: The A/F system check
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Message:
bless you, larry, for this and all your previous posts that have taught all of us on this board. have a good evening.
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Dan M
Dodge Dakota
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6/30/2008
08:09:24
| RE: The A/F system check
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Message:
Ryan
What year is your truck? what engine? Does your vehicle have an EGR valve? If so, check that next.
have you noticed any difference in your temp gauge? Have you tried a higher octane fuel?
here is a good article on detonation and pre-ignition.
http://www.misterfixit.com/deton.htm
- Dan M
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ryan
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
6/30/2008
13:29:02
| RE: The A/F system check
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Message:
my truck's a 2001 3.9, no EGR. I have a 180 stant thermostat and it runs just a little past the first dash (1/4 mark) on the temp gage, so im assuming that's right around 180.
I have tried high octane fuel and the knock is still there and performance still lags when the weather is warm. all of this is without using the A/C or anything... it's just the truck lacks power when it's warm.
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J and J Auto
GenII
7/01/2008
21:58:38
| RE: The A/F system check
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Message:
ryan
where is your IAT sensor still in the intake.
Mesure over 6" from throttle body and drill a 1/2
hole and screw it in the sensor does not need to
be grounded
reading colder will give you more fuel and timing
when hotter it will cut back
And check how your engine temp sensor is reading
A/c side a pain to change 2 wires the alt side
1 wire is guage sender both down by thermo
housing
when you relocate the IAT use a 1/8 npt pipe
plug in the intake hole pass side #2 intake runner
This should solve the doggie when warm problem
Larry
J&J Auto
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ryan
Dodge Dakota
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7/02/2008
15:01:52
| RE: The A/F system check
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Message:
larry- wouldnt you have to remove the intake manifold in order to do the IAT mod? I would think that drilling into it would allow metal to get into the intake and then into the heads.
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daddio
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
7/02/2008
15:12:22
| RE: The A/F system check
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Message:
ryan, larry is talking about drilling a hole ion the "plastic intake tube" that fits on top of the TB. but yes, it would still be a wise move to remove it before drilling the hole. i don't think the engine would appreciate either metal or plastic going through it.
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J and J Auto
GenII
7/04/2008
04:18:13
| RE: The A/F system check
IP: Logged
Message:
Yes the air tube not the intake manifold do not
drill or remove intake manifold
where the air comes to the throttle body thru
the tube
On the pass side in the #2 runner just in front
of the cable bracket there is a sensor that is the
IAT incoming air temp 2 wires
remove from hole and put a 1/8 NPT national pipe
thread plug in thie hole you remove the sensor
from a little silicon or teflon tape if you use
tape stay back 2 or 3 threads from the end you
don't want any getting into the intake
Do not crank the dog doggie out of it just good
and snug you can get the allen head type they
look better than a reg pipe plug most hardware
stores have them
now mesure 6" from throttle body and in either
the air cleaner or intake air tube drill a 1/2
hole and screw the sensor into the hole from the
bottom and yes remove from truck so you don't
get any crap into the throttle body
just hand tighten no wrench needed if plastic
do not try to tighten to much or you will strip
it right out just screw in util it bottoms out
If you need to lengthen the wires solder them do
not use conectors it does not mater which wire
goes were and the sensor does not need to be
grounded
Most the wires will reach by just undoing a little
of the wire harnas covering also be sure the
throttlr cable will not hit the wires
Thats it
Are you sure the knock you hear is piston ping
and not something else if your plugs were a nice
tan color your air/fuel is not lean and it should
not ping, could be a lifter rocker arm noise if
it was just lean or to much timing the higher oct
fuel should have eliminated it
Also the stock injectors can get very loud and
sound like a ping or an exhaust tick from a leak
The NGK FR4 is stock heat
FR5 1 colder
NGK numbers are reversed lower number hotter plug
higher number is colder
Larry
J&J Auto
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ryan
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
7/04/2008
11:04:24
| RE: The A/F system check
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Message:
ah, i thought you meant the air tube. however, my airaid intake only replaces one part of the stock intake and leaves the black bendy crinkle tube in place. i dont see how i could drill a hole into that. as for the ping, it does sound like a knock to me, but i suppose it could be something else. would adding a bottle of octane boost to my next tank of gas raise the octane enough to see if it fixes the knock?
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Dan M
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
7/04/2008
19:40:39
| RE: The A/F system check
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Message:
Ryan
have you noticed any change in fuel economy? My old 95 with 3.9L had sludge build up causing the lifters to stick. When this was happening I noticed less fuel economy. I did a engine flush and removed sludge and no more issue and fuel economy was restored.
- Dan M
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J and J Auto
GenII
7/05/2008
23:53:36
| RE: The A/F system check
IP: Logged
Message:
Move the IAT into the solid tube as long as you
do not live where it gets below 0 a lot it will
be ok
Just get a new IAT leave the old 1 where it is
when it gets real cold just put the wire back on
the stock position one
They are under $20 for a sensor
It will help a lot reading colder air
Larry
J&J Auto
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ryan
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
7/06/2008
07:38:23
| RE: The A/F system check
IP: Logged
Message:
ahhh.. good idea about just getting another sensor, i think thats what i'll do.
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smokin dakota
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
7/06/2008
11:23:24
| RE: The A/F system check
IP: Logged
Message:
ryan,,,cooler fuel means more hp...get a fuel cooler @
http://www.jegs.com/p/Perma-Cool/748651/10002/-1/10291
or get a mr gasket coolcan
http://www.jegs.com/p/Mr.+Gasket/745113/10002/-1/10291
that you put ice in if your 1/4th mile racing
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J and J Auto
GenII
7/16/2008
20:51:13
| RE: The A/F system check
IP: Logged
Message:
What I did was install a switch in the cab so when
its below 0 I switch to stock position
1 side of both sensors to computer wire
than you need to run 3 wires into cab 1 form each
sensor and 1 to other comp wire than you can
switch that way radio shack has the nice
rocker switces for aroun $3 a small box about
the same so for $6 and some wire you got it
If the sensor reads below 50 egrees it will trip
a code IAT sensor voltage high
Larry
J&J Auto
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