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CP
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7/21/2004
15:32:55

Subject: RE: How To Chain & Tensioner
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I know I'll get flamed for this as I did 2 years ago. No, you don't need it. It pushes a bit on the chain keeping the small amount of slack from rattling. It's a fix for a noise. Double Roller Kit ROCKS! GOOD CHOICE.



do
Dodge Dakota
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7/21/2004
19:54:21

RE: How To Chain & Tensioner
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cp u used the summit one or another companys? it may b a stretch but will i gain any power from this?




CP
Dodge Dakota
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7/22/2004
00:04:43

RE: How To Chain & Tensioner
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I used Engine Performance (EPW). The local mopar performance shop here had it on the shelf. You will only gain rock solid timing, cool gear sound, and peace of mind in a new, bullet proof double roller that will resist stretching and probably outlive the cylinder rings. Consider a new water pump if you are getting up to and over 70-80,000 miles on yours (Note: Strongly Encouraged to replace water pump at this time since it comes off to do a timing chain job). One other thing. It's possible that you got a metallic oil pan gasket (I did, I don't know if you do). If you do, don't cut back the tab that extends forward and seals part of the timing chain cover/water pump to the block (if this is your case too). You should also consider replacing the front crankshaft seal-thats easy. Good opportunity to flush coolant (before job) and you need to drain the oil and replace the oil filter when it's all done. See Larry's HOW-TO and this: http://www.dodgedakota.net/boards/v6/3056.html:

Is your 3.9l a rough running motor? Mine runs like waxed skis at 139,000 mi. If you do manage to stretch out your new set installed in a 3.9l v6, think about buying a 360. They run about 5000 bucks. Cheap



Donna Day
Dodge Dakota
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9/19/2004
18:53:16

RE: bypass hose
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How difficulty is it to just replace the bypass hose? We can see the bottom clamp but am unsure where the top clamp is and if anything else needs to be removed to get to it. Thanks for the info!



Ben
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12/09/2004
11:29:56

RE: How To Chain & Tensioner
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I have a '95 Dodge Dakota. The timing chain was extremely loose, 1"-1.5" of play. I assume it was running a few degrees off timing? I replaced the gears and chain, but now when I try to turn the engine over the ignition and starter are locked out like the timing is off. Everything is TDC on compression stroke, rotor pointing at piston #1. It appears as though the computer is not adjusting the timing back to the correct timing alignment and tight chain. How do I fix this since on a '95 the timing is set by the compuer and not manually with a timing light?



Kurttb1
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12/11/2004
00:34:50

RE: How To Chain & Tensioner
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Well if you had any problem like I had you might try turning the distributor around 180degrees which by the way is the only way it will fit again.
I tried to line my dots up and get number one at the top and ended up having to have the dots not together and it ran fine. If you put the dots together and it was not one of the engines which work like that then you can do the distributor it don't really take that long to try it just to see if it works and with a 95 you probably have more room at the back than I have with my 97, Good luck Kurt

you got it

Mark M
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3/22/2005
20:00:03

RE: How To Chain & Tensioner
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Larry or others: PLEASE HELP IF YOU CAN!!!
I have a 96 3.9L 4x4.
I have all the parts listed by Larry except I purchased a double roller chain from Cloyes. The part # is C-3028. Is this the correct part?
Also I have the tensioner, is there a point to putting it on and will it solve the rattling or will the double roller alone fix this?

Please help I am going to do the install/swap on Thursday!!



J and J Auto
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3/24/2005
04:53:11

RE: How To Chain & Tensioner
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yes use the tensioner with the double roller

if the chain and gear set is for a 5.2 yes it will
work why would you buy a chain for something else

the pre mag and older LA engines have a diff key

Larry
J&J Auto

Mark M
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3/24/2005
13:57:21

RE: How To Chain & Tensioner
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The C-3028 is for a 56-91 engine and I am assuming it won't fit. I was able to get the Street True double roller(9-1103) as the original was not in stock. I am hoping this will fit, I don't see why it shouldn't it is just a softer steel than the original and has the same measurements as far as I can see. Will let you know if I have any troubles.
Thanks for your advice.



faucker
Dodge Dakota
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3/27/2005
13:09:09

RE: How To Chain & Tensioner
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Dont use the tensioner with the double roller. The tensioner is a band aid fix designed to be used with a stock chain. The way the double roller rides on the tensioner will eventually wear on the surface of the tensioner and contaminate the motor.

There is no difference between the la smallblock and magnum timing chain. They are a direct swap. The cam keys are different but both work with the same timing chain.



Ross
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5/11/2005
18:36:10

RE: How To Chain & Tensioner
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I am getting ready to do this. I have the chain, a gasket set, and the tensioner setup. I want to take the front of the motor off, bolt up the tensioner and pop the new chain on- is this possible without all of the extra measurement?



Just Looking
Dodge Dakota
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5/11/2005
19:02:31

RE: How To Chain & Tensioner
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Yes u can do it like that but remember since a its a roller system the cam can be spun around easily even by an open valve.

Also take the new set and hold it over ur old one before removal just to be safe everythings built close to spec and also to make sure ur using the right timing mark on ur new set.

Have fun :)






Ross
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5/13/2005
01:45:25

RE: How To Chain & Tensioner
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I understand how everything comes off, but once off, and with the new tensioner in place, the gears are press fit correct? how do I slide them back on? just by tapping with a wooden mallet? or is there a tool?



Just Looking
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5/13/2005
02:46:50

RE: How To Chain & Tensioner
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A rubber mallet or a block of wood. Just make sure ur pounding right next to the shaft.
Pretty much anything that wont get it dirty in there or ding stuff up.



Ross
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5/13/2005
14:19:53

RE: How To Chain & Tensioner
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Now I understand the whole process, but am I going to need any kind of measuring device?? Is measuring the runout a necessary step?

Im not trying to avoid things, I just am not sure how to do those specific steps because the pictures are not hi-res, and the directions are more geared to someone that has a lil more exp than i do working on this kind of thing.

If i am just adding a tensioner and new chain/sprocket set, will I need offset keys>?



Ross
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5/17/2005
22:27:25

RE: How To Chain & Tensioner
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I have EVERYTHING off except for the damper/balancer.... How do i get the 32mm bolt off of the end of the crank without the motor turning? I dont have any impact tools - and how is a breaker bar supposed to work any diffrent than a long or short handled socket being smacked with a hammer? it just rotates....





CP
Dodge Dakota
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5/18/2005
10:14:57

RE: How To Chain & Tensioner
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You will not need any dials or keys. if the engine rolls a little while you work the dampener off just dont roll it backward but keep going around until #1 is TDC. Whatever you do dont pull off the timing chain without checkin #1 is at TDC. I have to strongly urge you to use a dampener puller set. Breaker bar gives you more leverage and easier length to work with when you hit it with the hammer. Try spraying some penetrant onto the bolt and take a 30 minute break. Then put the tool on the bolt and give it a good rap with the mallet. Pull the dampener off with the dampener puller. Replace the big bolt and turn the crank to reset the motor before removing the T/C gears and chain.



Ross
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5/18/2005
11:04:31

RE: How To Chain & Tensioner
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I have tried the hammer approach, also large breaker bar, reverseable torque wrench, socket - everything approach, still no luck.

I read on one of the other posts that if you can wedge the breaker bar against the frame and blip the starter in VERY VERY short bursts it would help break it loose, or to put the truck in gear and then use the weight of the truck and resistance in the transmission to break it loose. Is there anything possibly harmful with these?





manny
Dodge Dakota
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5/18/2005
11:20:56

RE: How To Chain & Tensioner
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if you have the 5spd manual, put it in 5th and set the park brake. i guarantee the engine won't turn.



mike142
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5/18/2005
22:09:58

RE: How To Chain & Tensioner
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Ross; Take out a spark plug( any one thats easy).
Bring the piston in that cyl to the bottom. Go
get some 1/4 or 3/8 rope or sash cord and feed
it into the spark plug hole. When it stops going in rotate the engine with a breaker bar and socket on the pulley bolt untill the engine stops
against the rope. This will prevent rotation and
WILL NOT hurt the engine. As for putting a new sprocket on the crank, preheat your oven to 350-
400 and let that new sprocket "cook" heat up.
About 20 mins ought to do it. Use a pair of water
pump or other large pliers to grab it and it will
slip on the crank with little effort. Give it try
and let us know.




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